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Hunting in California 101: How to Get Started (a Non-Definitive Guide)

Hunting in California 101: What I Wish I Knew When I Started

I swear it's really not as bad as people make it out to be.

Preface:

So you're probably reading this because you're interested in hunting in California and/or you're a new hunter who is struggling to do more than take a long walk in the woods with your weapon of choice. That or you just want to find all my mistakes and point them out. Great! This is written for you (even the pedants).
Since someone will ask, no I do not work for Fish and Wildlife. No I am not some professional guide or outfitter. I've just spent a lot of time hunting here as well as other states. I'm a transplanted software engineer on the Losing Side of Twenty-Five who fell victim to the sun and salary trap of San Diego and now I'm stuck. I've posted quite a bit on this subreddit before on a different Reddit account and even met with people from here. Then I lost the password to that account and I guess I never set up a recovery email. I'm bad with computers. Thank God I can fool my employer.

Part 0: How do I actually get started hunting in California?

  • Step 1: The first step is to complete your Hunter Education Safety Course. If you haven't done this yet you need to do this first. There is no circumventing this. Stop asking. This is the first step and probably 10% of the posts on the sub ask this. At the time of this writing, due to COVID-19, you can do the course entirely online. The course is worth paying attention to. There are a lot of California-specific rules and regulations that are important. I'm not going to go into specifics on how to do the course. If you can't figure it out, please don't start hunting. On the subject of hunter's education, unlike some states such as NY, California does not have a separate archery license and does not require you to complete a Bowhunter's Education Course to receive archery tags. It's still a good idea to do the course as it contains some great knowledge as well as opens up the opportunity to archery hunt in other states.
  • Step 2: Purchase your hunting license. The cost of a license is $51.02 as of 7/23/2020. You should receive a GO ID number during the process of acquiring your Hunter Safety Card above. This GO ID number is used by Fish and Wildlife to track you. It will be linked to some kind of ID which is also used to track you. In my case, this is my California driver's license. If I go to a license retailer, I can get a license or tag showing my driver's license. You don't need to memorize the GO ID number or anything; however, it is printed on your license documents so it's easy to find (once you have those, of course). If you have a fishing license you already have a GO ID. You can either order your license online straight from CDFW, from a CDFW License Sales Office, or from a licensed agent (the search function here is poorly set up--ignore the name and put in your ZIP or do County and State). Also, remember, your license is valid 7/1 to 6/30. NOT 1/1 to 12/31 like a fishing license.
    • Does it matter where I buy my license? The answer here for most people is no. If you are a disabled veteran with 50% or greater service-connected disability you need to purchase your license at the CDFW office the first time and bring your VA letter showing your rating and that it's service connected with you. After that you can buy it online or at the retailer of your choice. Disabled veteran licenses are currently $7.73. You may not need to go into a CDFW office due to COVID-19 right now. You should call and ask. Do not take this as gospel. There is also the Recovering Service Member Hunting License which requires a bunch of verification. I won't go into detail since I believe CDFW sold something like 3 of these in all of 2019. If you are mobility impaired, visually disabled, or qualify for the disabled archery permit (allowing you to use a crossbow during archery season), you're required to get your permit as well from a CDFW office as well as provide documentation from a licensed physician. There is no fee for any of those three licenses.

Part 1: What do I really need for hunting?

  • A hunting license. No seriously. This is a hard and fast requirement for California. If you want to hunt without a license go to Nevada and shoot coyotes (but don't actually do that--just get your damn license).
  • The appropriate tags. We'll go over this in the next section.
  • Patience. Temper your expectations. You are going to fail a lot at first. Hunting in California isn't easy and hunting on public land especially so. YouTube and hunting shows make it appear a lot easier than it is thanks to editing. Much like I tell the women I meet: have low expectations. This cannot be stressed enough.
  • Lead Free Ammo. More on this in a bit. Just remember this is a statewide requirement. Also someone asked me once if this applies to broad-heads for archery. Just lol. Don't be that guy.
  • General/Basic/Useful Starting Gear (this list is not exhaustive--just some ideas to get started):
    • Inexpensive pump-action 12 or 20 Gauge shotgun. If you're a new shooter, new to guns and can only afford one to start with this is the way to go. It opens up trap/skeet shooting as a hobby and will allow you to hunt small game, upland birds and waterfowl. A 12 gauge shotgun is sort of the American standard and a worthy first purchase; however, if you're a smaller framed person I would recommend a 20 gauge shotgun. I own both and use the 20 gauge more often than the 12 just because it's lighter to take for a long walk in the woods. It's not a dick/tit measuring contest. Get what you're comfortable with. My recommendation is the Winchester Super XP (SXP) as it comes with two barrels (long for hunting and short for home defense) and three chokes (Full, IC, Mod). Another good choice is the Mossberg 500 All Purpose Field, Classic, or Turkey. Otherwise a used Remington 870 is fine, but I would avoid purchasing a new one due to some serious quality issues in recent years. If you're on a budget, buy a Maverick 88 model 31010, All Purpose. Yes it's cheap. Yes it works. Yes it's reliable. Just realize you won't be flexing on anyone with one. But, again, it's not a dick/tit measuring contest anyway.
    • Inexpensive .22LR for small game and plinking. Make sure you buy copper ammo for it. If you want a semi-auto .22LR buy a Ruger 10/22 and be done with it. It's basically the Honda Civic of guns and you can't go wrong with one. If you want a bolt-action either buy a Marlin XT-22 or Savage Mark II. You should be able to source a used .22LR in good condition as well if you're short on cash.
    • Decent big-game rifle If you can't afford to invest in quality for both a gun and a scope buy a quality optic first. Yes, this might seem counter-intuitive; however, you can move the scope from one rifle to the next and it's very unlikely that a new hunteshooter is going to be able to out-shoot even a cheap factory rifle for quite a while. There are tons of options for rifles. Some great options for guns which should be under $900 out-the-door at your local gun store are (in no particular order other than the first two are my favorites): Tikka T3x, Weatherby Vanguard, Bergara B14, Howa 1500, Ruger American, Savage 10/110, and a used Remington 700 (I don't recommend buying a new one anymore). Any of these guns will do you just fine. Don't buy some tacticool shit for hunting like the Ruger Precision Rifle. Don't get me wrong. It's a great gun. It just weighs 10 pounds. You'll find most of the tacticool rifles are excessively heavy or they have shorter barrels for urban combat (which results in lower muzzle velocity and reduces range). Another option is the Mauser 18 which you can get for ~$400 on sale at the moment and is criminally underrated. If you're on a budget the Mossberg Patriot, Thompson/Center Compass II, Savage AXIS Line and the Remington 783 will all be out the door for under $450-ish. They should all get the job done which is the most important thing. Also I only listed bolt-action rifles as I don't want to deal with the what-is and what-isn't questions of legal semi-autos in California.
    • BUT WHAT CALIBER?1!!?//? Ever want to see nerds fight on the internet? Talk about calibers. If you want a gun which can take any of the big game in California I recommend the following calibers: .308 (usually the easiest to find ammo for), .30-06, 7mm Remington Magnum, 300 Win Mag, .270 and 7mm-08. If you're recoil sensitive, a new shooter, or guns still make you nervous, I recommend the last two as the first two you look at--especially the 7mm-08 as it's criminally underrated. All of those calibers have in-stock lead-free ammo right now at the closest gun store to me (I actually called and asked) and can be used to ethically harvest deer, elk, antelope, bear and sheep. There are tons of other options which people are going to happily point out which are way less common (e.g. 28 Nosler) or rounds which are great, but apparently sold out in lead-free at the moment (like 6.5 CM). While I'm sure tons of people have a ton to say about calibers, no one starting out hunting needs to know that the .30-06 can be filled with slightly more powder than the .308 so you get higher velocities from hand-loads, or that the .300WSM is technically better than a .300WM out of barrels shorter than 24 inches. It literally does not matter. Buy any of the above calibers and you're good to go. Ignore the haters. In a similar vein, anyone who tells you 300 Win Mag is "too big" or "overkill" for a mule deer either a) doesn't hunt or b) probably believes a .50 BMG can kill you with the shockwave from a near-miss. Also don't buy a caliber that you're afraid to shoot. Once again, this isn't a dick/tit measuring contest. I once owned a .300WSM and legitimately hated shooting it. That was a regretful purchase. Don't make the same mistake.
    • Quality Scope. Buy Vortex. Hell, buy used Vortex and if you get a lemon just send it back to them under the lifetime warranty (no, seriously, it's that easy). Vortex is the best value per dollar with the best customer service and also the best Reddit presence (seriously--just ping vortexoptics with questions and you'll get answers within a day). When it comes to scopes there are tons of options with dozens of different reticles and I will try and briefly give some answers. To cover the focal plane debate, please watch this video from Vortex (I swear I don't work for them). My personal preference is First Focal Plane because I know what my subtensions are and I can accurately judge holdover regardless of my magnification as a result. As for MIL/MRAD vs MOA, here's a video that explains it really doesn't matter. Just make sure your scope adjustments match your reticle. Personally, I shoot MOA because 1 inch at 100 yards is easier for me to visualize. I've shot MIL/MRAD in the past and swapped. As far as reticles go, buy one that you can understand and use with appropriate markings. Don't buy one you don't know how to use (or aren't willing to learn how to use) or that just clutters your field of view. Finally, in regards to magnification, do not overdo it. You're not shooting a deer with a 338 Lapua from 2 1/2 miles away. The low end should be 3x or 4x and the upper end should be 12 to 16x. On my deer rifle I shoot a Viper PST Gen II 3-15x44 FFP with the EBR-7C MOA reticle. With this setup I am comfortable taking shots past 500 yards which is beyond the range most new hunters should ever consider. Now to avoid being accused of being a Vortex corporate shill, I should add that when I shot F-Class my rifle scope was a Nighforce NXS and I've owned Zeiss in the past (before I swapped to FFP) and was quite pleased with the quality of both. They're also more expensive than Vortex so there's that. Oh, and my .22LR has a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire scope on it which has worked flawlessly for 7(?) years now. Seriously. I treat it like shit and it's held zero the entire time. 5/7 would recommend.
    • A shooting stick. For a large part of California, shooting from a bipod attached to a rifle isn't practical. Whether it's sage or tall grass, it just isn't happening. The Primos Trigger Stick is what you want. There is also the tripod version. I own both and use the trigger stick more often. If I had to choose one I'd go with the monopod because it's easiefaster to deploy.
    • Good binoculars. Again, I'm going to suggest Vortex. A solid pair of 10x42s or 8x42s are what you're looking for. I rock Diamondback HDs 10x50s I bought used. Keep in mind, these aren't really the binoculars you'll see people "glassing" with. These are more for the mobile hunter and general scanning. If I were to buy a single pair of binos for carrying around, I'd swap my 10x50s for Diamondback HD 8x42s and it's what I suggest you do if you're starting out (again, buy used if you can). In the past I've owned Bushnell binos and they worked for getting started, but quickly left a lot to be desired. While Bushnell quality is a lot better than it was in the past, I still recommend Vortex because I've got personal experience with using them far more recently. Also just ask around. Tons of people have good binos they don't use and will usually part with for way under the replacement value.
    • A pack. If you're backpack hunting you're going to have different requirements than someone stand hunting within drag distance of their truck. If you want a good pack which will work for most big game situations, buy the ALPS OutdoorZ Commander frame and bag. I owned one. It held up pretty well although it's not waterproof. For the price it's pretty much the best you can do. I upgraded to an Eberlestock Just One Pack J34 with the J2SD Spike Camp Duffel and it's been good so far. I'll be really testing it this fall though. If you don't need a full pack, I use a ALPS OutdoorZ Pathfinder with the Turkey call and game bag. Granted when I purchased it the two came together so they may have since modified it, but I still recommend it. Keeps all your stuff handy. I actually use it for turkey hunting. If you just want a simple day pack (or want to mix the daypack with the Pathfinder), I bought this a few years ago at Big5 for like $50 and it's held up just fine. The buckles are a PITA but at least they don't break.
    • Good knife. I actually don't know that much about knives. I use a Havalon Piranta Edge because I'm too lazy to sharpen blades. I've skinned a lot of game with it and love it. My buddy has the Buck Knives 141 and another carries a Buck 110. As long as the knife is sharp it will work. If you don't know how to sharpen a knife, get the Havalon or similar knife with replacement blades.
    • What about archery???!?1 If you want to start bow-hunting--which you absolutely should--you really need to go to an archery shop and talk to the employees. Tell them your budget (make sure they know you need a full set up for that amount and not just a bow). They'll have you test fire bows and measure your draw length. Help you figure out what draw weight you're comfortable with. You'll need to find the bow that works for you. It's not the same as buying a gun. Bows are much more individual. Don't be embarassed because you're shooting a 40lb draw. The more you practice the more it will go up. I shoot a 60lb draw and have zero intention of ever going up. It's more than enough. Once again, hunting is not a dick/tit measuring contest. Don't believe the hype that you need to have an 80lb pull bow. If you've never shot a bow before don't waste your money on a flagship. I currently shoot a Bowtech Revolt X which is basically sex in bow form. It's also overkill for someone who has never even shot a bow before. If you have a limit of $500 for bow + arrows, the Diamond SB-1 Edge is a "good enough" solution and I know two people who have taken deer with one. It's not great, but it'll do the trick to get you started. If you need the recommendation on a bow shop in the San Diego area the only shop you need to go to is the Bow N Arrow Shop in Lakeside. Make an appointment and tell Bruce your situation. He will go out of his way to help you. One other thing: crossbows are considered firearms in California in relation to hunting seasons, so basically a crossbow can't be used on an archery tag during archery season.
    • Camping equipment for backpack hunters. Check Craigslist for good deals. I've had the same REI tent and stove for years. Also, look at camping's sidebar for all the camping-related and gear-related sub-reddits. They have far more on this subject than I could ever hope to fit here.
    • Cooler. If you're going to be traveling a distance and need to keep ice cool for several days I can personally recommend RTIC because I'm too cheap for Yeti, but Yeti are very good coolers as well. Otherwise Igloo or Coleman coolers work just fine. Don't let the marketing fool you. You do not need a Yeti/RTIC if you're just starting out and not leaving the cooler in the Arizona sun for 6 days straight. Hell, if you're going to be home within an hour you don't even need a cooler. As for size, 65 quarts fits a quartered mule deer and ice.
    • Clothing. I'll be honest. If you're just getting started and on a budget just go to Walmart and buy some cheap camo. Don't overthink it because it will work just fine. This might be sacrilege to the guy wearing $800 worth of Sitka clothes, but at least your credit card isn't max'd. If you can't afford Sitka, but also don't want to walk into Walmart, just look for King's Camo or Badlands. I wear a mix of stuff personally and it's mostly First Lite and King's Camo. Of course, if you've got the money, Sitka, First Lite and KUIU are great. Buy a good pair of gaiters. Also wool is your best friend. I have a pair of Kenetrek gaiters and they're great. You should also wear gloves even in the summer months. It will save your hands from getting cut up.
    • OnX. This is a requirement for public land hunting in California. I will write more on it later. Want to know where to hunt? Well, this is the answer.
  • And some nice-to-haves
    • Laser Range Finder This isn't a requirement to get started hunting, but if you've got the stuff above and especially if you're bowhunting it's a very nice thing to have. Personally I use a Vortex Ranger 1800 but the Impact 1000 is a great starting point. In the past I had a Leupold RX-1000i TBR that was great until it decided to die on me. Bushnell makes great rangefinders and if you're doing archery on a budget this is a good option. Also check classified ads for golf. Sometimes you'll find some deals on rangefinders there.
    • Binoculars for glassing and a tripod. This is especially true for anyone hunting SoCal where you need to glass. You want a good 15x56 or 18x56 and a solid tripod. I'm currently waiting on these Diamondback HD 15x56 to come in stock where I usually buy my optics so I can replace my less-than-great Nikon 16x50s. As for tripods, I have a Vortex Summit SS-P and it works pretty well. I use it for my spotting scope and it's admittedly a little light for that, but that can be offset pretty well by hanging weight from the balance hook.
    • Spotting scope I use a Vortex Viper HD 15-45x65 (angled). It's great and I can count points from crazy distances while also being light enough I don't mind carrying it. I love it. The only other spotting scope I've used is a Swarovski and the thing was incredible--but it also costs as much as 1.5 KLR650s.
    • Game Cameras Since I'm going to assume most people are hunting on public land I recommend you just buy some cheap Chinesium generic cams. Game cams are prone to wandering off for unknown reasons on public land. Obviously if you're hunting private property you should have a safer investment, so feel free to spend some more on actual quality cams. As for everyone else? Cheap Chinesium it is. Use lithium batteries with the cameras to maximize the cheaply-engineered battery life and a cheap 32GB class 10 SD card. It works out to something like $52 a camera between cam, batteries and SD card. You're going to lose them. Don't splurge here unless your daily driver is a Bugatti.
    • goHUNT Insider Membership. In reality, this isn't actually that useful when you're first starting out if you're only sticking to hunting inside of California. Once you decide to expand your hunting horizons it's super valuable. They also have great articles on their site.
    • 4WD Vehicle There are a lot of rough desert service roads--especially around San Diego and Imperial Counties--which open up a lot of public land for you to hunt, but they can only safely accessed with 4WD. Is this a requirement to get started hunting? Not at all. Should you buy a 4WD vehicle just to go hunting? Probably not if you ask personalfinance. Is it nice to have? Absolutely. Even better if it belongs to your friend. I can't begin to tell you how many scratches my truck has from going off-road...
    • Private Property. If you can't afford it find someone who owns property and ask for permission. You'll be surprised how many landowners will agree--especially if you bow-hunt. I've got permission in the past to hunt on private property in San Diego. How did I manage it? I asked. That simple. Tons of hunters complain about not being able to hunt on private property but have never even tried asking. Just get used to getting rejected. Thankfully my dating life prepared me well for this.
    • Hunting Buddy. More on this later. Suffice to say friends are good to have.

Part 2: Tags, Stamps, and Points. Oh my!

  • Tags 101
    • What are tags? Tags are a permit to harvest a specific big game animal. They're sold in addition to your regular hunting license.
    • Why do I need them? You need tags to harvest deer, elk, pronhorn antelope, bighorn sheep, wild pig, or black bear.
    • How many tags can I have? You are limited to two deer tags each year and one each of elk, antelope, sheep and black bear. You can purchase an unlimited number of pig tags.
    • How do I get tags? Pig tags and black bear tags are sold "over-the-counter" (OTC) This means you can drive to your local Big 5, buy a tag, and then head straight to the woods and try and harvest an animal. Well, in theory. If 1,700 bears are harvested statewide, the bear season is closed; however, that hasn't happened since California banned bear hunting with dogs c. 2011. We haven't even come close since then. Some deer tags are OTC but most are not. Most deer tags are considered premium deer tags and allocated via lottery, then there are restricted deer tags (these are less common), and finally unrestricted deer tags. I will cover these differences in the section on deer. ALL Elk, Pronghorn, and Sheep tags are awarded through a lottery drawing. None are sold OTC in the state of California.
  • Stamps/Validations 101
    • What are stamps? Stamps are endorsements on your license similar to endorsements on a driver's license. They entitle you to certain privileges. In California, these privileges are exclusively related to bird hunting.
    • Why do I need them? If you want to hunt upland game, waterfowl, or other migratory birds, you need the appropriate stamps. There are three stamps. If you want to hunt waterfowl (i.e. ducks) you need the "California Duck Validation" as well as the "Federal Duck Stamp." If you want to hunt upland game (i.e. turkey, dove, pheasant or quail) you need the "Upland Game Bird Validation".
    • How many stamps do I need? You just buy the stamps once per year. If you're going duck hunting, buy the two validations and you're good to go for the season. Same as the Upland Game stamp. It's valid for the same dates as your hunting license.
    • How do I get stamps/validations? Same place you got your hunting license. You can order it online or go to a licensed retailer. It's super easy. There is no limit or lottery or anything.
  • Points 101
    • What are points? Points, or preference points as they're technically known, are awarded for each year you enter a tag lottery and don't win the tag. They exist in an attempt to award a limited number of tags in a fair manner which rewards people who have tried for the tags the longest
    • Why do I need them? It's practically impossible to draw elk, pronghorn, sheep and a large number of deer tags without them. I'll explain them more in depth later, but suffice it to say for now each point increases your likelihood of getting drawn.
    • How many points do I need? That depends on the species and the hunt. It can be as low as zero or one to as high as the current maximum of 19 points on next year's application.
    • How do I get points? Say it's your first year and you entered for a Bighorn Sheep tag and didn't win. You'll be awarded a point for this entry. The next year you'll have one point. If you don't win in your second year, you'll get another point and so on. Once you win your points zero. You can also elect to just buy a point by noting "Preference Point Only" instead of entering a specific drawing on your application. However you can not choose both "Preference Point Only" as well as entering a drawing. It's one or the other.

Part 3: Finding Public Land to Hunt On

It's not that hard. I swear. There are 38,197,000 acres of public land--38% of the entire state--open to hunting. Is it hard to find GOOD hunting land not overrun by other hunters? Yes. That's why you scout and get used to hiking quite a bit. It's not impossible, however, and that's what matters.
Use OnX. No seriously. It's worth every cent. Every single time a new hunter asks me where to go my answer is OnX. I don't want to do a write-up on every amazing feature this software has to offer because they have a YouTube channel where they do it better than I ever could. That being said, there are a few things worth mentioning for people who are too lazy to watch some YouTube videos.
First - you can use OnX from both a PC and smartphone. I'm mentioning this because quite a few people I know were surprised when I told them the website works from PC. It's way easier to plan a hunt on a 27 inch monitor than a 5.8 inch phone. The website and the phone app are synced so if you add a marker to the website, it appears on the phone (and vice versa).
Second - check out the layers library and use them. As an example, you should have the layer for recent fires turned on when you're looking for bear, deer or elk opportunities. Again, I'm not sure why people don't realize this is available.
Third - use markers and colors which make sense. When I first started using OnX, I would mark everything in the most haphazard fashion. It's not useful. I suggest keeping it simple. If I think an area might have access I drop a yellow "A", if I confirm that it has access I drop a blue"A" and if it turns out there's no getting there I set a red "A". It makes it easy to read quickly. However, do whatever is easy and works for you. Just make sure you understand what you're looking at and you're consistent with it.
What kind of land can I hunt on? Legal Disclaimer: You should verify with all respective agencies and landowners that hunting is permitted at specific locations because I'm not responsible for you going to jail etc.
  • BLM Land. OnX marks BLM land in yellow. BLM land typically allows dispersed camping without permits. At least in Southern California deserts, the BLM has decently maintained dirt access roads throughout. On most BLM land throughout the state you can also target shoot however this needs to be checked with the local field office first. Also, if you see a "No Shooting" sign they're talking about target shooting. You can still discharge a firearm during the lawful pursuit of game. Just a protip.
  • National Forest. Most National Forest property can be hunted on and if hunting is prohibited it will be clearly marked. OnX marks National Forest property in green. Roads are typically maintained pretty well through National Forest property. A large number of the roads throughout Cleveland National Forest in San Diego can be access with a front-wheel drive compact car and a sufficiently brave driver.
  • Wilderness Areas. Most Wilderness Areas can be hunted. There are cases where there may be an endangered animal (such as a butterfly here in San Diego) which results in some acres being closed to any and all access--not just hunting; however, this is exceedingly rare and it will be clearly posted. It's important to note you can not operate a motorized/mechanical vehicle (including a bicycle) within the bounds of the wilderness area. You will be walking in and out. Don't drive your jeep down a fire road through a wilderness area. Just because the road exists doesn't make it OK. Follow the rules. There will be signs telling you not to do it. It's pretty hard to claim ignorance on this one. OnX marks Wilderness Areas with a dotted pattern. You will notice this wilderness area is part of a national forest from the color of the lower layer. See? Learning has occurred.
  • Some State Wildlife Areas. OnX marks Wildlife Areas in light blue. Each Wildlife Area has specific regulations set by the state. Thankfully those regulations are easily available online as well as very useful write-ups about each area.
  • In Imperial County specifically you can hunt on IID Land. I'm adding this here because the Imperial Irrigation District (IID) permits hunting on their properties. You will probably be stopped by an IID officeemployee at some point. They're friendly and usually super helpful. There's just a pretty big crime problem in El Centro right now where farming equipment (including things like full-size tractors) are getting stolen and IID actively checks their properties for suspicious people. All that being said, it is not the standard for private water to allow hunting. Vista Irrigation District in San Diego leases their land to hunters through the "My Country Club" program at $3,000 a year. However, it's still worth checking where you live. You can just call the local irrigation district office and ask.
  • Private Property with Permission. You can use OnX for this as well. It helps you locate property owners. I don't want to doxx anyone so no screenshot, but every registered property owner is available to you. If you find a piece of land you wish to hunt you can use this information to find the owner. My house sits on an 1/8th of an acre and if I click the parcel it has my full name (including middle initial weirdly enough) as well as address. And, no, you can't hunt on my tiny slice of land I call home. The HOA would definitely frown on that.
  • Hunting Clubs. This is particularly true for upland game bird or duck hunting. A lot of hunting clubs own or lease property they maintain specifically for hunting. If you can afford it, this is a good option and it's a great way to meet other hunters. Think of it as the Country Clubs of the hunting world.
  • Private Property through a Guide Service. Again, this will cost you. However, most guide services have agreements with property owners to hunt private property. There is no shame in hiring a guide either. If you want to get better at a hobby it's common to pay for lessons. Why is hunting any different?
  • SOME National Recreation Areas and National Preserves / Lands administered by NPS. In Southern California, the big one which permits hunting is Mojave National Preserve (which is a great place for quail by the way). OnX marks it in this purple (fuchsia?) color. National Recreation Area is the same color and places such as Lake Meade National Recreation Area in Nevada permit hunting. I assume there are places in California which do but I don't know any off the top of my head and I'm too lazy to do your research for you. Just check the regulations before you go. Everything is online these days. There is no excuse. The incomplete list of places you can hunt is here because the government can't be bothered to maintain it. Case in point: Mojave National Preserve isn't even listed but hunting is listed on their own website for those wondering.
  • Military Bases. Some military bases permit hunting to the public (Fort Hunter Liggett is one). Others permit hunting only to active duty service members or retirees (Camp Pendleton). Each base has their own rules and regulations. If you're close to a base it's worth checking to see if they allow hunting and what the requirements for access are.
  • ? Some Logging Company Properties ?. I've heard this from multiple people, but I live in Southern California where this isn't really a thing. If someone from NorCal can chime in that would be great.
What Kind of land CAN'T I hunt on?
  • State Parks. There is no hunting on state parks in California.
  • MOST National Parks / National Monuments. Again, research before you go. Just realize most properties are going to be a big no-no.
  • MOST National Wildlife Refuges. There are some you can hunt on though. It's worth checking. Just understand most refuges do not permit hunting and those that do typically regulate what you can and can't hunt.
  • Private Property without Written Permission. Seriously. Don't be that guy. Oddly enough there are exceptions to this rule in other places (dove hunting in Yuma, AZ is permitted on private non-residential farming property as long as there isn't a posted sign forbidding it). But when you're in California this is a hard and fast rule. Once again: don't be that guy (or gal).
Will you tell me your secret spot?
I don't have one and none of my spots are secrets. They're all on public land. If you're really lost-in-space or just generally nervous about going somewhere you scouted through a website and you happen to be local to Southern California, just message me and I'll help out. It's really not that difficult though.

Part 4: Alternatives For When You Don't Get The Tag You Want

SHARE Hunts for Elk
This is a California-specific hunting opportunity. It's another lottery but it's an agreement between the state and private landowners to permit very regulated hunting on their properties. Each hunt is different and, again, this is a lottery so it's basically a moonshot; however, the odds of getting drawn on an elk tag is actually higher here than most general draws are with zero points. The money goes back into the program. The SHARE elk drawings close 7/24 this year. Which happens to be today. You can read more about the SHARE opportunities here. Enter through the online DFW license sales.
Leaving California (Hunting out-of-state): Since you can check out, but never leave, right? It's worth looking at other states.
  • OTC Elk - Colorado, Idaho, Oregon, Utah and Washington all offer OTC tags. This will cost you $450-$750 for the non-resident hunting license and the tag.
  • OTC Antelope - Wyoming has good draw odds (some are 100%). Otherwise I think Idaho is the only state with OTC antelope tags and it's archery only. New Mexico does weird OTC tags as well, but they're only valid on private property so if you pay for access this is a good option I guess.
  • OTC Sheep - Literally does not exist. You can do a ranch hunt in Texas if you want to harvest a sheep. Otherwise sorry.
  • OTC Deer - Arizona late season (DecembeJanuary) offers OTC archery hunts for both Mule deer and Coues deer with success rates as high as mid-30%. You will see TONS of deer. This is an excellent opportunity for archers. Otherwise, Idaho offers OTC Mule Deer and some 2nd/3rd season hunts in Colorado are OTC. Other states have leftover tags that are first-come, first-served. Montana and Arizona fit this category.
  • DISABLED VETERANS SPECIFICALLY - You can hunt in Idaho on a non-resident disabled veterans permit for cheap. A license + OTC elk tag + OTC mule deer tag is something like $100. Plus you can punch your mule deer tag on a black bear if you really want to. If you fit the criteria this is an absolutely amazing opportunity.

Continued Here: Hunting In California 102: Draws, Deer, and Dove. Plus a bit on finding a hunting buddy.

I noticed a mistake!
Great! Comment below and I'll fix it. We're all human and I don't pretend to be infallible.
submitted by StuckInSanDiego to Californiahunting

Adobe Photoshop Elements 2021 Full Crack Mac

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