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Old Austin Tales: Scenic Trips to Watters Park on the A&NW Railroad Available for Two Bits (25¢) - 1890s
But one thing I ended up finding when searching for news of the granite block derailments were advertisements for Watters Park, and for excursion trains on the Austin and North Western Railroad, the railroad that was built for the purpose of bringing the blocks into Austin. The route the train followed back then is the same one the MetroRail Redline uses today. It went as far as Marble Falls. But Watters Park was the first stop outside of Austin and after the capitol was completed, the train route was used most often to ferry excursionists to and from this place. Today Watters Park is little more than a street name exit off of N. Mopac and an entry on TSHA site. But back in the 1890s it was a recreational destination like we think of Zilker Park today. It wasn't a water park with slides, but more of a natural area with a train station, a bandstand and dancing area, a few shops, a few permanent resident farmers and lots of livestock.
There are no photos of these old trains or of Watters Park that I know of. So I thought I would copypaste for y'all a few articles describing the beauty of the place and what kinds of events took place there, and of the excursion trains that would go out to the hill country northwest of here.
But first let's get the small bit I could find about the granite blocks out of the way. This old KXAN article that was submitted here a little over a year ago explains them for those who don't already know:
Why capitol builders abandoned these granite blocks in Austin in the 1880sBack in 1962 a Statesman history writer named Hamilton Wright wrote an article on the history of Watters Park. Quoting some of it:
The Texas capitol turns 131 years old Thursday, but you don’t have to visit the building to see the history surrounding its construction.
Massive granite blocks are scattered along rail lines throughout Austin, dotting the landscape visible from Capital Metro’s MetroRail routes between Leander and downtown. The blocks — at least 50 of them in all — are accidental monuments to the effort that went into building the statehouse in the 1880s.
“They would have been in the capitol if they’d gotten there,” Mike Cox, a longtime Austin writer and amateur historian, told KXAN.
Cox’s latest book, “Legends and Lore of the Texas Capitol,” published in 2017, tells stories about the iconic pink dome, including how the massive blocks of almost-capitol arrived at their new homes along Austin’s rail lines.
He first started hearing the tale as a kid. “My grandfather’s father…was actually among the laborers who helped build the capitol,” he said, so when he was young, his grandfather would point out the granite along Airport Boulevard and explain a piece of Texas history.
Back in the 1880s, when construction began, a quarry in Marble Falls agreed to donate all the “Sunset Red” granite needed to build the 302-foot-tall capitol. Contractors originally planned to use limestone but realized it became discolored when exposed to the elements due to iron in the rock.
In exchange for the granite, workers built a rail line to haul stone from the quarry up to Burnet, where it was shaped by masons from Scotland, and then down into Austin.
Some 4,000 train-loads stacked with nearly 190,000 cubic feet of granite rolled into the capital city during the six years of construction leading up to the building’s dedication on May 16, 1888. But not all of it made the entire trek.
Hauled on flatcars riding a small-gauge rail, some of the blocks simply fell off the train; since the state was getting them for free, it made more sense just to haul in more instead of spending the effort and money to pick them back up.
Most of them are still where they fell more than 130 years ago. “Not likely to be going anywhere at 168 pounds per cubic foot,” Cox said.
MetroRail commuter trains now follow the same route as the granite-haulers; though the tracks have been modernized, the blocks have stayed put.
A large collection sits along the track at Waters Park Road, near Mopac and Parmer Lane. Less than a mile south, several more blocks are visible at the crossing on Gracy Farms Lane, and a smaller chunk is hidden in the brush where the tracks cross 38th 1/2 Street in east Austin.
In at least one instance, train cars derailed completely while crossing a bridge over Brushy Creek in northwest Austin, sending about three dozen blocks into the creek bed below. The Brushy Creek Greenbelt grew up around them, and visitors can see and explore the piles of almost-capitol granite. The state installed a historical marker near the site in 2008.
Cox also found a solitary block in Bertram. There are likely more along the miles of track between Burnet and Austin, he said, but they’re either hard to access or covered up by brush.
One place he can’t find them, though, is the spot that spawned his interest in the story and in history more generally.
“The only ones that I know that have been reclaimed were the ones that I used to see on Airport Boulevard,” he said. In all his research, he’s never come across a reference to the stones being removed, and can only speculate as to what happened to them.
“I’d sure like to know if somebody does know where they went,” he said. “It’s not the kind of thing you can just go over there and pick up and put in the trunk of your car.”
That’s why many of the blocks haven’t moved in the last 130 years. They’ve withstood the test of time, each one a memorial to the work that went into the capitol all those years ago; each one a piece of almost-capitol.
Waiters Park Excursions Popular And Real Bargain in Good Old DayThe same Statesman history reporter made an even better article in 1963 about Watters Park and some of the other nearby places that are long gone:
Sights and Incidents you would have seen in the 1890s in the Austin country: A "dummy-line" railway engine standing at the west side of Congress Avenue at Fourth Street. It was in the early 1890s,...
THE LITTLE "pleasure resort" of Watters Park, 10 miles north of Austin on the narrow gauge Austin and Northwestern Railroad. A regular summer Sunday excursion train "toted" you to and from that pleasure retreat for the insignificant sum of two bits--25 cents. Watters Park had a beer saloon where big, white collared mugs were pushed over the well lined bar. Also a cotton gin, a store and a section house for gandy dancers of the railroad. Just south was the bayou-like Walnut Creek whose origin was a bubbling, fern-fringed fountain. Watters in the 1890s was on the popular wagon route called "The Georgetown Road." Two miles west of Watters Park was Duval, a rail station before Austin welcomed the I&GN, now the Missouri Pacific. It contained bare stone walls just below the Walnut Creek which legend said had been a water driven grist mill when Austin was in its swaddling clothes. Some of the ruins remain to this day.
Near Watters Park in the late 1890s natural asphalt was reported found seeping out of Walnut Creek banks. The report created a sensation in Austin and The Statesman related a company might be formed to develop the find. Doubtless the asphalt still seeps from the deposit there.
Austin has come a "fur piece" since 1890.I've always wanted to know more about what kinds of festivities took place in Watters Park so I went looking further in the old Weekly Statesman editions from the 1890s and very early 1900s in the UNT archive. There was a lot to find! Mostly farming reports and news from the police blotter. But some of the reports were advertisements for the park. Quoting one from 1897:
As a boy I used to sit on the gatepost of our county home 10 miles north ol Austin, on the old Round Rock-Georgetown Thoroughfare, and watch long strings of Longhorn cattle slowly driven northward, monopolizing the narrow lane and making buggy-travel perilous. And farmers still drove yokes of oxen big animals, slow but obedient. And we used to ride in a straw-covered wagon to church at Merriltown, three miles away.
The man and his wife sat on the seat and the children and I was one of them dangled our feet out the endgate and other adults sat in rickety rawhide-bottom chairs. The conversation to the church was anticipation and that on the way back comments on the contents of the long-drawn-out sermon. Usually we children had not survived the long passage but fallen asleep and, like stovewood, fondly laid to rest and slumber in the hay in the wagon. Them was the the good days nonetheless!
There was a little frame school house at Summitt where we lived. It had 20 or 30 nondescript boy and girl pupils. It ran only a few months in the year. I was too young to "matriculate." All about were cotton and com fields. Corn really made a good yield in those days. In the spring, roasting ears were a delicacy for a time. And mustang grapes matted almost every stunted tree and produced great clusters of grapes. The green ones saturated with brown sugar made excellent cobblers. And some of the "anti" men of the community had developed a very pronounced taste for the ropy, language-provoking wine they made. Sometimes tramps caught between towns after dusk stole into fields of corn, got a handful of ears, and buried them with shucks on, into the hot ashes. After a long stay they were taken out and eaten. Nothing better!
Before my departure from the Summit community the highway through there was macadamized. County prisoners and convicts with chain and ball about each one's feet did the arduous job of making big lumps of limestone into little ones. The road through there was a long time under construction. But it effectively lifted the farmers and sheepmen of the Duval-Watters-Summitt communities out of black mud which after slow rains clogged wheels and completely disrupted transportation and communication. Running about a quarter mile back of our farm house was the Austin and Northwestern Railroad, built a narrow-gauge to handle huge blocks of granite from Granite Mountain to the site of the present State Capitol.
Many a time I waved at the engineer on the dinky, smoke-spitting and grumbling locomotive. And sometimes the train made a contribution of free blocks of granite when they tumbled off the flat cars on which they had been perched, they were never picked up.
About a mile farther on the way to Austin was a small board designating the "station" an empty place on the line where a chance passenger waved his hand with a "washout signal" to get the train to stop and pick him up. And about half a mile west of our house the International and Great Northern Railroad (now the Missouri Pacific) ran through big corn-held. A little shed 6 by 3 feet, covered, bore the name Amboy, where passenger trains stopped on flag. Originally the station was Mount Juliet and boasted a store and a postoffice.
Duval, 2 miles farther north, was an important station back in the 1880's and 1890's. It once had a depot, sectionhouse and a large mercantile establishment, once visited by Sam Bass and his gang. Duval was noted for its gushing spring, the source of Walnut Creek. The spring once furnished enough water for a grist mill, probably long before the Civil War. Copperhead and rattlesnakes were numerous.
Now Duval, Amboy, Watters, Mount Juliet do not rate a station whistle from speedy freight and passenger trains. No longer does one see a yoke of oxen, and the once-modern macadam road is now paved. And the boy who sat on the Summitt gate-post and watched the long string of Long-horns go by and longed for the long tarrying buggy of his dad to return from Austin 8 miles away then but now inside Austin and the sack of mixed candy he was bringing to his tot sits in a rocker trying to understand the riddle of life a man of nearly 79, still full of wonderment.
THE GLORIES OF WATTERSSo there you have a good description of what the place was like. Now what kinds of events took place there? Well from about 1897 to about 1902 there was an annual Labor Day event that attracted thousands. This is a page of the Statesman from 1902 that is too long to copypaste but describes 10000 people filling the park for the festivities. After a parade downtown they took the train to Watters Park, and got rained out later in the evening, having to wait for the train in the mud. Similar events took place in 1901 the year before.
An Ideal Place for Romancers and Picnickers.
Every observing traveler over the Austin and Northwestern Railway has been struck with the variety and beauty of the adjoining landscape the solid and well kept roadbed and the substantial and picturesque depots at stopping points which prove that the road is under the management of a man of fine taste and good judgment. One of the most noticeable stations is at Watters fourteen miles by rail and ten by road from Austin on the headwaters of Walnut creek. Watters is a pretty little village which threatens by its popularity as a holiday resort to soon develop into a town it not a city Not only is the village itself interesting but it is surrounded by a country so varied in character and favored by nature is rarely met with in Texas. Before the advent of the railroad the village was known as Sumnerville after one of the old settlers but the railway builders gave it is present name as one of the natives explained because tho waters of the two branches of Walnut creek met there but of this deponent is not in a position to speak. It has always been a favorite camping place for the lovers of Outdoor religious meetings.- and under the spreading branches of the giant pecans that now shade the new bandstand and dancing platform. Many a sinners has been shaken up and steadied down to a new order of life.
There is nothing narrow or intolerant about Watters and its community. The festive pleasure seeker and the devout worshiper are alike welcomed and made to feel at home. This was noticeable twice during a recent week, when a protracted meeting was in full swing at the campground about 100 yards east of Watters while the coloired folks enjoyed' themselves in Pecan park 100 yards west without any conflict of interests or enjoyment
We are a cosmopolitan people
Visitors to Watters can always join heartily in singing "I have been there and still would go" as it supplies unexpected sensations and revelation to the "cribbed cabined and confined" denizens of the city and the residents of less God-favored sections of the country.
A brief description of the more interesting scenes near Watters are now in order. The first place of interest to the holiday maker is Pecan park, which adjoins the depot and covers about ten acres. It looks as if specially designed for picnic purposes being studed with noble pecan trees many of which would be in full bearing when Columbus said to the king of Spain: ''I will go and discover America."
Under the umbrageous limbs of one of these patriarchs, Capt. Leitnaker erected a neat, sensational and commodious bandstand and platform which will be found equally well adapted for' social political and religious festivals. Benches and tables are supplied free, 'pro bono pulblico'.
Within the park is a spring of never-failing water of the purest brand. If Watters had nothing beyond' the park as an attraction for pleasure seekers, it would have a solid and sufficient excuse for inviting strangers out; but with an aggregation of natural beauties and scenes made famous (locally) in pre-state and antebellum times she should become the Mecca of pleasure seeking pilgrims.
Within a mile of the park can be found bits" of scenery and historical spots that may some day inspire a latter-dav Cooper and Sir Walter Scott. Old settlers have thrilling tales to tell of adventures in combats with Indians who had their headquarters at a spring which forms the head of Walnut creek at Duval, and they point out spots where settlers were scalped and red men dispatched to the happy hunting ground. Innumerable mounds adorn or disfigure the landscape below which the warriors' mortal remains together with those of their faithful ponies and other personal belongings still lie.
Leaving Watters and following the course of Walnut creek in a westerly direction the traveler with an eye for the beautiful and a slightly impressionable imagination will find scenes that will serve as a good substitute for the fabled beauties of more fashionable resorts in other parts of the world. The views are inspiring and suggestive rather than over-awing. Here you get hints of mighty canyons and dizzy peaks as you look upon the towering lichen-covered bluffs that rise above the dark and gloomy caves. Over one of these bluffs you will be told that a Comanche chief hard pressed by a party of settlers whose homes had been raided leapt for life and falling about 150 feet found a hard rock bottom and death.
Close by the spot is a cavern known as the "Robbers' cave" which is believed to be connected with the Sam Bass cave at McNeil three miles distant. Its extent and interior arrangements still remain a mystery in spite of the enterprise of many adventurous spirits who have Sinbad tales to tell of what they saw or imagined they saw. In the course of their explorations. A little further on in the bottom of the creek is a large boulder surrounded by dry sand and pebbly shingle except in times of flood known as the "popping rock." As tradition says that one of our old governors there "popped tho question" to his loved one while they sat there enjoying the beauties of nature and each others' society. As the popper was perfectly satisfied with the reply, many lovesick swains have by one subterfuge and another lured their loved ones to the same spot and the result has never been known to be unfavorable. In fact a well known geologist has declared that the popping rock of Walnut is almost identical in character with the Blarney stone of Kilarney.
A few yards further west the course of the creek is barred with an utmost perpendicular wall of rock which in flood times forms a miniature Niagara and causes an atmospheric disturbance that can be heard at a great distance. When the creek is in flood many people come to see the falls of Walnut and seeing them feel repaid.
These are but a few of the interesting places in the district but there is practically no limit to them. Not only will those tired with the confinement of the city enjoy the freedom of country life but the student the artist the naturalist and the scientist will each find gratification and reward for a day's outing in this favored district. It is the fashion of the day for people to travel great distances at great cost and inconvenience to "do" scenes rendered famous in song and story while they remain utterly oblivious of greater natural treasures close at home. --AN OBSERVER.
However, around 1902 or 1903 everything changed for Watters Park. Asphalt was found seeping into the creek and that led to much speculation that there might be undiscovered oil deposits underground. There was a land rush as this 1903 article talks about, including interest from Standard Oil. By the end of 1903 the bandstand and pavillion had been taken down and there was barely an acre that hadn't been leased to oil drillers. This activity apparently went on well into the 1920s as this 1925 article tells us. But as we all know from the lack of oil wells in the area today, apparently they found nothing worthwhile.
As the TSHA article linked earlier says, the end was nigh for Watters Park:
During and following World War I the tourist industry diminished, and the park was mostly used by residents. During the Great Depression many of these moved to other communities, such as Dessau, Austin, and Pflugerville. The school closed after the war, and children were sent to Summit School, a mile south of the community. Additional depopulation took place during and after World War II. Most of the structures were abandoned and eventually collapsed. Some families remained on the land until death or hard times caused their departure. By 1980 only one family descended from original residents occupied the townsite. During the 1970s commercial structures were built in the townsite. More recently, the construction of a north extension of Loop 1 from U.S. Highway 183 to Burnet Road caused the remaining family to depart and destroyed a large part of the buried remains of the town. Archeological and archival investigations of the community were conducted by the Texas Department of Highways in advance of construction. Housing developments have eaten away at the edges of the original site. Little remains today except Waters Park Road, the dam over the creek, and portions of the baseball field (that's mostly gone now too).That's all for today. I don't have any photos for Bonus Pics so I'll link a few Bonus Articles.
Bonus Article #1 - What a Statesman reporter saw on an excursion train trip to Marble Falls on the Austin & North Western Railroad - September 12, 1889
Bonus Article #2 - Advertisement in Swedish for a concert in Watters Park from a Swedish-language newspaper called The Texas Posten - August 9, 1900
Bonus Article #3 - "One Killed in Centex Car Violence" (Collision with Granite Flatcar) - January 15, 1955
Bonus Article #4 - Ad for "Grand Labor Day Celebration" (in Watters Park) - September 3, 1900
Bonus Article #5 - "Oil Boom Promised for Watters Park" - June 4, 1903
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