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X1 Yoga OLED - Battery Life and OLED Panel Info/Tips/Resources Compilation
I’ve created this post to chronicle ownership and provide a resource for those looking to get more out of their X1, mostly with regards to the OLED screen and battery life.
Table of Contents
1: Battery Life Tweaks
- Firmware, Drivers, & Software
- OLED Tech Overview
- OLED Related Tweaks
- Panel Info
I'll make as good an effort as I can to update this post with new information and tips as I hear of them; if you've some ideas or methods please post them below!
1: BATTERY LIFE TWEAKS
Before I continue, I want to report that, after making the following adjustments below, I'm having absolutely fantastic battery life. Currently typing and revising this post in Vivaldi, at 60% brightness in battery saver mode, I've 9 hours and 50 minutes remaining on a battery charged to 92%.
Firmware, drivers, and Software
- Roll back the Synaptics touchpad driver as the latest versions causes excess CPU usage. This previous version is confirmed to get rid of the problem and doesn't seem to impede functionality: https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/mobiles/n1qgx12w.exe (ver 220.127.116.11). If you don't use the touchpad at all, you can disable it in the bios (I've an unsubstantiated hypothesis that disabling it in the bios might save more power vs. disabling it in Windows).
- It's been reported that the Conexant audio driver also causes excess CPU usage. This can be remedied by using a generic Microsoft driver instead. In the device manager, select the Conexant audio device under "Sound, video, and game controllers". Right-click and select update driver. You'll want to select Browse for drivers on computer, and then "let me pick from a list...". You should be presented with two options: Conexant SmartAudio HD and High Definition Audio Device. Choose the latter.
- If you've a Samsung NVME SSD, download the latest drivers from Samsung as this could increase your write speed (which means a faster return to idle, thus potentially a little power savings).
- Undervolt the CPU cores, cache, iGPU, and system agent. Aside from OLED stuff this is probably the most important step you can take to improve battery life; given that power is proportional to voltage squared, if you lower the voltage you stand to lower power usage by a sizable extent, which also comes with the added benefit of less heat, higher sustained turbo frequency, and less fan use. From what I've read, the best utility to do these things is ThrottleStop; it provides a lot of flexibility when it comes to adjusting voltages, clocks, temp profiles, etc, and I've also seen it alleged that it uses less system resources than Intel's utility. Here is a good introduction and overview of the program: https://www.notebookcheck.net/ThrottleStop-Primer.213140.0.html . In my experimenting, I've been able to lower my CPU core voltage by 100mv, CPU cache by 85mv, GPU by 90mv, and the system agent by 50mv. Obviously you'll want to do some experimentation as to what the limits of your particular chip are.
- Obviously the same ideas that apply to other Windows 10 machines also apply here; uninstall un-needed software that operates in the background, disable Cortana, limit the programs that do run in the background via the services, don’t keep WIFI on unless you’re in an area with good connectivity, use the Power Saver mode, etc. Some suggestions would be disabling auto-update managers that gets installed with various software (like Adobe) or disabling the Office Click-to-Run process that runs in the background eating unnecessary CPU.
- You can use some registry tricks to configure how quickly the screen will shut off ; I set mine to about 20 seconds as, the sooner the screen shuts off, the less power it will use.
- It might be worthwhile to purchase a USB-C powerbank; off the top of my head I've heard good things about the RAVPower 26800 PD, which can output about 30 watts (you'll also need a USB-C cable, and your best bet is to go with a USB-IF Certified model like this: https://www.amazon.com/review/R3I108G87O0H2N ). USB-A power banks could also potentially be used with an adapter cable but in that case you're limited to the rather low wattage/slow charging of the USB-A standard.
- I’s important to use a power saving browser. Ideally, we’d use Edge but then we couldn't black out websites (why this is needed is covered in the next section). I’ve chosen to go with Vivaldi because it UI colors can be blacked out very easily, built in tab hibernation, and chrome extensions can be installed to black out web sites and instruct websites to steam HW accelerated battery friendly H.264 streams. I realize that Vivaldi isn't the most battery friendly browser in terms of its optimizations, or even the most touch screen friendly (no pinch to zoom), so I'll say that pretty much any chrome based browser can be modified in the way I'll describe in the OLED section, though your ability to black-out the browser's UI will vary.
Because we are addressing the OLED version of the X1Y, we can potentially wring more battery life out of the display panel via optimization of program UIs and Windows in general. Here are a few important points to consider before methods are discussed:
- The power usage of an OLED screen is a function of the average picture level (APL) of the content on the screen. If you’re familiar with Plasma Display Panels, you’ll understand the importance of this concept; the brighter a pixel is, the more power it uses. To keep the heat and power draw down, the higher the APL of the screen content the lower the actual brightness of the screen will be, and vice versa. I'll use an analogy to describe what I mean (in it, clock speed is brightness of a pixel, and heat is APL): think of how a processor balances clock speed and heat; the lower the temperature, the higher the clock speed. But when the temp goes up the processor has to reduce the clock-speed to not only prevent over heating but to prolong its life. Same concept applies here to your OLED screen. This relationship is illustrated by this graphic:
- The logical conclusion of the above is that, if we reduce the APL of content that is unimportant in the UI (backgrounds that take up the majority of space), and increase the APL of the content that is important (pictures, text, boxes, etc), we can have a low overall APL which will also allow us higher brightness at very reasonable power usage (comparable to an IPS at a lower brightness level). This basically means that, if we use black backgrounds, we can run the screen with the brightness cranked without a serious power penalty thus making what was before a rather dim screen actually useful in brighter environments!
- The RGB sub pixels have the following efficiency, and therefore lifespan, in order of highest to lowest: green, red, blue. Therefore, blue themed UI elements will worsen battery life and shorten the lifespan of the screen.
- The individual sub pixels of an OLED screen will decrease in life span the more they are used, or to put it more succinctly, the screen will darken with more use, and there is potential for burn in due to UI elements being static. Therefore, it’s important,when setting up our UI to try and avoid creating bright static UI elements. This is one reason why the high contrast themes in Windows would not be a good idea: the white boxes around the buttons and other UI elements are 100% white, and tend to end up in the same spaces in various programs.
First thing is configuring your browser:
- If you're using Vivaldi, you'll want to modify the dark theme by darkening the accents and other UI elements.
- Search for and install the chrome extension “Dark Mode” by dlinbernard. This will change the rendering of websites to make them darker in various ways. I've found that mode #3 works the best all around, and and I leave all the website-specific modes on except Twitter & Reddit. Obviously, this will end up breaking certain websites, in which case just add them to the white list (or just toggle Dark Mode off momentarily). You could also install the “Turn out the lights” extension as this will further reduce the screen brightness when watching Youtube.
- The default scroll bar has potential for burn in due to it being static. To address this, install the "Minimal Scrollbar" extension.
- If your browser does not have a tab hibernation functionality built in, you could use "The Great Suspender" extension.
- Install "H264ify" extension to tell websites to stream H.264 encoded video when possible.
- Use your browser in full screen as much as possible as this will cut down on the amount of static UI elements on screen.
- Enable the dark mode in the colors menu.
- Set the task bar to auto hide (elsewise the always-there icons would be prime locations for burn in to occur). IIRC Lenovo also has a auto-dimming taskbar option
- Install a dark theme. Normally the only ones available would be high contrast, but given that HC has potential for image retention, breaks some UI elements, and is ugly as sin, it’s worth exploring outside options. I’ve personally had a lot of luck with this: http://www.cleodesktop.com/2017/05/oops-black-minimal-theme-windows10.html While this theme costs 2.50 USD it's a very small price to pay for longer battery life! I've also read a bit of the author's feedback on their website as well as on Deviant Art, and they seem to be pretty good about providing support to users. The theme works post creators’ update, has lovely icons, and doesn't seem to break any Windows UI elements (and very few program UI elements) as far as I can tell. Implementing a windows theme will also have the side effect of automatically dark-theming some programs as well (like Foobar2k, Geogebra, Winrar, the cells in Excel, etc).
- If you use MS Office 2016, enable the dark theme via the file -> account menus. If you use Word make sure to change the page color to black and the text to a light grey (and auto hide the ribbon). In OneNote 2016, you can change the background to black by installing the "Onetastic" add-on, and selecting "Background Color List" in the Download Macros -> Background menu located on the home tab. For additional battery life work in full screen as much as possible as this will allow the black background to take up more screen space.
- For Adobe Reader, enter the accessibility menu and enable “change document colors”. You’ll want to use custom colors (black background, white or off-white text), and check the “change line art as well as text” box. As with Office, work in full screen or reader mode as much as possible to hide the brighter UI elements. Thus far this change hasn’t broken any PDFs I’ve looked at yet; my calc and physics books seem to render rather well, graphics and all. Keep in mind, this won't change the document, just the rendering in Reader.
- If you need to import PDFs for use in other programs, you can do this by installing Adobe Acrobat, opening the PDF you wish to import, going to print, select to the Adobe PDF printer, and in the advanced options, checking composite gray and negative boxes. Once done, you'll find your PDF's colors converted to gray-scale and inverted.
- Quick screen timeout, display auto dimming, black wallpaper should also be options for improving battery life. Additionally, using the night-light mode in Windows 10 should theoretically improve battery life as well; it red shifts the display, which means less blue pixels used, and less power drawn by the screen.
2: OLED Screen
- First, the only company producing OLED panels with RGB sub-pixels is Samsung (aside from Sony’s grading monitors IIRC); every OLED panel in the X1 was produced by them and no one else. The same panel model is shared between the Gen1 and Gen2 Yoga.
- Manufacturing OLED displays with RGB sub-pixels is insanely difficult and Samsung usually has rather poor yields with these larger-than-phone sized displays compared to IPS panels (hence the limited availability). Given this, I'd be willing to suggest this also means that quality control isn't as high as your top-tier IPS.
- The native gamut of the OLED screen is much larger than most displays in the world, let alone laptop displays (like Samsung phones and tablets with AMOLED screens). Because the gamut is so large Lenovo has included software the constrains the gamut to various color spaces so colors can be presented accurately for differing material.
- The way Lenovo constrains the gamut is via 3D LUTs, or 3D look-up tables. To understand what a 3D LUT is and how it works, read this page: http://www.lightillusion.com/luts.html . Lenovo said this method was needed because the 1D LUT option (which is what one typically uses when calibrating a display in Windows) isn't accurate enough.
- I'm pretty sure all Samsung OLEDs use PWM to control the brightness of the screen. By that logic, you're more likely to notice flicker the lower the screen brightness is.
- It seems that the red, blue, and green sub-pixels on Samsung panels have different response times when going from 0/low brightness to higher brightness, with the blue sub-pixels responding much slower than red or green. The way this manifests is a purple or reddish trail following or preceding "moving" brighter objects on the screen. This is usually only noticeable when the brightness of the screen is turned down to minimum with the "night light" on. To sum up, this sort of artifact isn't a defect in your screen.
- Given that each pixel lights itself, there isn't going to be perfect uniformity on screen brightness. That being said, you should make sure your uniformity at lower brightness levels is acceptable; a screen that has a defect in this regard will have large dark and bright splotches when you display a dark gray shade in full-screen. For example, in my screen, the left hand of the screen is much brighter than the right side of the screen when the brightness is at min level and gray tones are present. Additionally, this non uniformity can be different between the red, green, and blue sub-pixels; on my screen, the red sub-pixels have a lot more non-uniformity vs the others. I understand that what I'm describing here may be hard to picture, so I'll take some pictures and upload them at a later date. Suffice to say, this sort of problem is should be covered under the warranty.
- If you're a prospective buyer and are concerned about the screen reflections, then a good way to gauge if they're acceptable or not is to take a look at a Samsung Galaxy phone (which also use OLED panels); if I place my Galaxy S5 on my X1's screen, the amount and type of reflections are extremely similar from one screen to the other.
- If you need to have your OLED screen replaced via warranty, make sure you go out of your way to specify that your X1 has the OLED screen, part for the whole display assembly is 01AX899 for the 2nd Gen yoga. I've read some horror stories where techs end up bringing the LCD display.
- As mentioned above, Lenovo has implemented a software the applies a 3D LUT to allow the user to change the gamut of the screen. The 3D LUTs that Lenovo generated for use with this panel were made via measurements from just one panel some time in 2015. Because of product variation, this a poor solution for those of us who need color accurate displays.
- Given that the 1D LUT isn't accurate enough for this display, our only option for accurate calibration is to try and create new 3D LUTs and replace the ones Lenovo included. Those of you "in the know" might be able to appreciate how powerful of an option this is for an accurate screen calibration. I won't go in to the details of how 3D LUTS are created as that's a whole article in itself. I will however provide a few important details for those who are looking to create your own for use in Lenovo's software.
- The LUT files can be found in the following directory: "C:\Program Files\Portrait Displays\Lenovo Display Optimizer\calibration\LEN4140" and are in 3DL format.
- The LUTs were made via Calman and are 171717 cubes.
- To find out which file represents which profile, just open the 3DL in notepad and note the #filename. For example: len4140_native_22_d45.3dl means that this file will display the native gamut, with a gamma of 2.2, and a white point of D45. As you can see in the directory, there is a LUT file for every gamut, gamma, and white point combination available in the Lenovo settings menu.
- At this point in time I do not know if simply replacing the default files in the directory is enough to get Lenovo's software to load them. I'm in the process of purchasing various meters needed for display calibration, so after I'm able to test my theory, I'll update this section with further info on the procedures. If I can get this process working correctly, I'm also considering offering this calibration process as a service (I'd guess a fee of 250 USD) for those who don't have the equipment or knowledge necessary to measure the screen/create the LUTS.
Now for some random advice and observations gleaned from my use of the machine so far:
- I use my Yoga for note taking a lot so it spends a lot of its time converted to a tablet. I've noticed that the keys get some wear as a result; the matte finish on the edges of the keys and center of the space-bar is worn away to reveal the shiny plastic underneath.
- I personally would spring for an extended warranty with NBD onsite service, accidental damage replacement, and premier service. I chose that because, for 1/10th of the price of the machine, I will get prompt in person service, free replacement if I break it (which, as a student using this all day long in place of paper & pencil, is a possibility), and priority for parts orders + US based case manager. I feel this is important because, if the OLED screen develops odd issues or gets cracked, I'm not stuck spending 700+ work fees for replacing it or getting stuck at the end of the line waiting for more panels to be made.
- I've read a few testimonies stating that their machine arrived with dead keys. Mine doesn't have this problem, but it's important to check every key when you receive it to make sure there isn't a problem.
- This laptop loooooves finger prints. If you want this machine you'll have to get over your phobia of them fast.
- The trackpoint, trackpoint buttons, and keyboard feel absolutely fantastic.