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USB Loader GX for dummies - you can't screw this up!

When I got into moderating this subreddit, I noticed a good 60 or 70 percent of posts are asking for help with USB Loader GX. And that's completely justified; Wii USB loaders can be finicky, troublesome, and annoying.
That's why I've decided to make a COMPLETE guide on USB Loader GX. If there's the smallest detail that I'm missing that might help people understand something more, then I am happy to acknowledge that. Please tell me.

Choosing a USB device

This can be a little bit of a controversial topic around here, and for good reason. People have different needs in a storage device, and some people think their solution is better than the other.
The most universal, quick and easy, foolproof storage device to use for a Wii is an external hard drive. None of the compatibility issues of flash drives, and a lot more space.
Though there's a tradeoff when you switch from a flash drive to a hard drive. Hard drives may or may not need external power to avoid going to sleep. Most every hard drive won't have a problem either way, as when there's drive activity they'll wake up.
Flash drives are a bit of a different story. They have no such sleep issues, they're very small and discrete, and flash storage is getting cheaper by the minute. Again, there is a tradeoff. USB flash drives have pretty poor compatibility with the Wii. Some work great, some don't work at all, and some sort of work.
Personally, I've had 4 flash drives, and out of all of them one of them straight up got killed, one of them didn't launch games, the other kept corrupting, and the last one flat out wasn't recognized by the Wii.
If you're willing to take the chance and buy a flash drive so you don't have to have a hard drive laying around - go for it. Get a flash drive.
If you want to play it safe and get more storage for your money, but don't mind the large size of hard drives - then the hard drive is for you.
"Ok, so I want a hard drive. What kind should I get?"
Well, there's only a few options. There are internal hard drives in enclosures, my personal favorite because you can swap drives out in minutes. These can be more expensive at first than dedicated external hard drives, though, because you need to buy an enclosure if you don't already have one. Once you've got an enclosure, though, you can replace a drive for 20 dollars or less.
A dedicated external drive is just as reliable as an internal drive in an enclosure, and they're often smaller and nicer looking, but there's yet another tradeoff. Once you need to replace the internal drive inside, there's often no way to replace it. It wasn't designed to have a swappable drive. And then you're stuck with a dead hard drive. Some actually do have ways to swap out the internal drive, but out of the couple I've owned none of them were meant to be taken apart and once you were inside you had no idea what to do.

cIOS installation

The very first step in USB Loader GX is having a Wii with the Homebrew Channel and cIOS. Installing cIOS is easy if you follow the right guide. Install the app from my link, and follow the guide. Or, alternatively, if there's a part you don't understand, I can explain it.
  1. First, download the app and go inside the zip. There's a little folder named "apps" inside the .zip they give you. Inside that "apps" folder is a "d2x-cios-installer" folder. Move that folder to the "apps" folder on your SD card or USB drive that you're using to load homebrew apps.
  2. Next, make sure your Wii is connected to the internet. If your Wii does not have an Internet connection, then I can post other steps in the comments at your request. Enter the cIOS installer from the Homebrew Channel. The very first thing you will be met with is a disclaimer and some credits. Press any button to skip those.
  3. For the very first option, "select cIOS", scroll right with the d-pad until you get to v10 beta52 d2x-v10-beta52. Scroll down one to "cIOS base". Select base 56. Scroll down to "cIOS slot". Select 249. Scroll down to "cIOS revision". Select 65535. Then, press A. You'll be brought to a map of IOS slots. Just press A. It will start installing. If you get the error "net.init failed", your Wii is not connected to the internet.
  4. Once your first cIOS installation is done, you are brought to the IOS slot map once again. The slot you just installed cIOS in should be lit green for "success". Press A to be brought back to the cIOS selection screen.
  5. This time, change the base to 57 and the slot to 250. Repeat the steps from earlier.
  6. Once you're back into the cIOS selection screen, change the base to 58 and the slot to 251. Repeat the steps from earlier.
And just like that, cIOS installation is done. Once you're back into the cIOS selection screen, press B to exit back to the homebrew channel.

USB Loader GX installation

You've come this far. It's finally time. Download USB Loader GX from this link, and to many's dismay, it's a .7z compressed zip file. Don't worry, you'll live. Most people have some kind of decompression utility on their Windows PC or their Mac.
Though if you don't, the best decision is 7-zip for Windows or The Unarchiver for Mac. I'm unsure of how to use The Unarchiver as I don't own a Mac, but once you've installed 7-Zip on Windows, all you need to do is right click the 7z file, and click "Extract to (folder name)". The contents of the archive will be dropped inside a new folder.
Go inside this new folder. Inside is a folder named "apps". Inside this "apps" folder, there is another named "usbloader_gx". Move the "usbloader_gx" folder to your SD card or USB drive's "apps" folder.
Though we're not done yet. You need to have your games on your drive first. And you can't just put them on there. That would be too easy.
Make a "wbfs" folder on the root of the drive you wish to put your games on (must be in file format .iso or .wbfs). Inside the "wbfs" folder, make a folder for each game like this:
/USB drive/wbfs/game name [gameid]/gameid.wbfs
Example: /USB drive/wbfs/Wii Sports [RSPE01]/RSPE01.wbfs
You're probably wondering: What the hell is a game ID? It's not too hard. Just go to GameTDB and search your game's name. Next to the game's name on the left will be a 6 character string of numbers and letters. That's your game ID. Here's another game for example:
/USB drive/wbfs/Mario Kart Wii [RMCE01]/RMCE01.wbfs
Both of those examples were that of USA/NTSC games. For a PAL game, the code would be RMCP01 or RSPP01.
You'll get the hang of it soon enough. I already know there's gonna be 20 people in the comments asking me why I didn't just use Wii Backup Manager, and it's simple. Just another thing to go wrong. It's slow, rarely updated, and doesn't do anything you can't do yourself on a basic file explorer. If you can learn, then you should learn.
Edit here, go ahead and use Wii Backup Manager if it bothers you that much that I just don't like it. It's good for newbies, but like I said, it's a failure point in an already finicky process, it hasn't been updated in several years, and it's not hard to learn. You should learn.
Once the games you want are on your USB drive, it's time to make the magic happen. Put your SD card or USB drive in your Wii (not that games can't be on the SD card, they must be on a USB device), put the device you have your games on into the Wii (whether that be the same device you load your apps from or not). Be absolutely sure that you've put it in USB slot 0 shown in this picture, or else it won't work. After you've got your games, you got your cIOS, you got your USB Loader GX on your storage device in the homebrew channel, it's time. Launch USB Loader GX.
If you've done everything correctly, your games will show in the USB Loader GX menu with no covers (downloadable by pressing 1). You'll be able to launch them provided your USB device is compatible.
submitted by DerpMaster2 to WiiHacks

Late 2016 MBP 15 w/Touchbar 460 - Razer Core X and 5700 XT (Build Guide)

So here is how I went about getting this working both in Mac and Windows. Prepare for a lot of weird occurrences because this was a small nightmare but man is it fun now (when it's not crashing for no reason while gaming in just a few games - Damn you Witcher 3).
My setup:
Late 2016 Macbook Pro 15" with TouchBar (Radeon Pro 460)
Razer Core X (650W PSU)
XFX RX 5700 XT Thicc III Ultra (8GB)
LG 4K 60hz Freesync 24" Monitor
Things you will need (or at least I needed) - USB Keyboard, USB Mouse (separate from MBP keyboard and trackpad), USB Thumb Drive (8GB is what I used)
Create a USB for [automate-eGPU EFI](https://egpu.io/forums/mac-setup/automate-egpu-efi-egpu-boot-manager-for-macos-and-windows/) using the 8GB Stick.
After creating the USB add the 2016 15" Precompiled [DSDT](https://egpu.io/public-repository-egpu-dsdt-overrides/) from (itsage) onto the USB under EFI/CLOVEACPI/WINDOWS - Just copy paste the dsdt-modified.aml
Add [gpu-switch](https://github.com/0xbb/gpu-switch/releases/download/v0/gpu-switch-windows.zip) as a folder to the USB stick (simply for ease of use)
Add the Bootcamp Windows Drivers to the USB using Bootcamp assistant in MacOS (I realize this is done when you install Win 10 through Bootcamp but there are issues that you need to resolve after upgrading to the Insider Dev Ring Build)
Download the latest Red Edition from BootCampDrivers.com and add them to the USB. You don't have to do this but it's to eliminate having to rely on Windows to download them just in case your Wifi throws a hissy fit.
Download the latest version of DDU and add that to the USB as well.
Ok running the latest Catalina updates and the newly made automate. Fresh Bootcamp install of 2004 ISO direct from Microsoft. Loaded into Windows and let all the drivers download and update Windows to as high as possible. I ONLY had my charger plugged in. For some reason if you plug in any other devices (especially USB-C HUBS) Windows throws a fit. After several updates and driver installs on Apple's side I started with a fresh cold boot into Windows. Setup Windows Insider and chose the Dev Build Ring. Let the system fully update to the newest Dev Ring Build (this has changed since I did the fresh install but the most recent Dev Ring Build works as well). Once you boot back into Windows you'll notice that your MBP trackpad and keyboard do not work. This is where the USB Keyboard and Mouse come into play (Don't use a USB hub as it will cause the Dev Ring Build to fail on boot and remove the update). Go to your USB and the Windows Support folder (bootcamp drivers) and run the Serial IO Driver installer (DPInst) under WinPEDriveSerial IO. Shouldn't take long. If your keyboard and trackpad don't immediately work then install the AppleSPIDevice AppleSPIKeyboard and AppleSPITrackPad drivers and it should be working by now. Remove your USB keyboard and mouse and now you should be able to use the MBP ones now. Now here is where you run DDU so that means you'll have to boot into Safe Mode to do so. Just make sure it goes through the whole process and you use DDU to disable Windows Automated Driver Installs. Ok now restart and use your EFI USB holding Option so that you boot in to the EFI USB. Press Q and then choose Boot into Windows. Now you'll want to let Windows install the latest drivers for the internal iGPU or download the drivers yourself. Up to you. Now run the integrated.bat file under gpu-switch as Administrator (copy them from the USB to the Bootcamp Drive). You might have to download [2013 Visual C++](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=40784) to not get an error when running gpu-switch. No need to disable anything since the Dev Ring Build seems to correct it alone with just the modified DSDT without disabling anything. Shutdown (not reboot) your MBP and connect the eGPU to the right side Thunderbolt 3 ports and connect the EFI USB to the left side. Reboot and install the BootCampDrivers and you should be all set.
Sorry for the long post I hope this helps someone. I'm going to continue updating each and every chance I get and continue testing. I don't mind being the guinea pig and knowing the Late 2016 MBP TB3's are the most nightmare inducing models to get working I wanted to provide some help for those that own it. I chose to go this route to see if I could get all 4 Thunderbolt ports working and available. This could be part of my stability issues so I'll keep trying more and more configurations.

EDIT: As others have stated the most recent Dev Ring Build of Windows 10 (2004 - 20226.1000) has basically fixed everything for me. I'm going to try a fresh bootcamp install but it appears as though I can just now plug my Razer Core X in and use it even without the EFI USB Boot Drive. No modified DSDT's or anything. I'd have to check but I think just disabling the 1901 (16x) and 1905 (8x) PCIe Lanes before connecting and installing the eGPU allows me to install the regular AMD drivers and it just works. What kind of magic is this?
submitted by Heratiki to eGPU

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