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[ANALYSIS] The rare and unknown Code Lyoko Gaming Console

[ANALYSIS] The rare and unknown Code Lyoko Gaming Console
1 year ago, I was searching for some Code Lyoko merchandising on Google Images, and I was surprised to find a very low-quality image of what seemed to be a Code Lyoko gaming console.
( https://static.serlogal.com/imagenes_big/8436046/843604619785.JPG )
I searched in a few places and I found a guy selling it on Milanuncios, an Spanish online thrift store. I kept it in my bookmarks till I decided to buy it 6 months ago, but the seller had already deleted the post. After searching over the whole Internet for months, I managed to get a second seller in Wallapop, a different Spanish thrift store; and I also found a lot of info about this console.


Link to the Imgur album with the individual images: ( https://imgur.com/a/TlLTKOV )
So, yes, this is actually an official gaming console, since it's licensed by Moonscoop, with 5 Code Lyoko games + 20 other irrelevant games.
It was developed by Ingo Devices, a Spanish company that was liquidated in 2016, and the console was only sold here in Spain. I don't think that big stores like Carrefour sold it, but rather it looks like only small and online shops were able to sell it. The price was 27,16€ (~30$), and the only picture I've been able to find of the package is the one in this post.
At the back of the console it says "Code Lyoko™ © 2007 Moonscoop, France 3. All Rights Reserved.", which makes sense, as its games are based on the S4.
The console pretty much looks like a GameBoy Advance. It has an (A) and (B) button, a D-pad and 4 buttons at the top: (L) and (R) buttons, which are used to restart the console and to pause the games; and 2 volume buttons. There's also a switch at the bottom to turn it on/off.
It also has a DC input (5V), although it runs on 3 AAA batteries; a minijack socket, and an AV output, which I wasn't able to get working. The speakers are at the bottom, and there's a hole next to the AV output which I'm not very sure of what's for.
In fact, my unit is pretty damaged. When you shake it, you can definitely hear something broken inside. There's also a considerably big area of dead pixels in the screen, the AV output doesn't work, the reset button is stuck, and the speaker has way too much noise. But I don't think I'd have been able to find a different unit, to be honest.


When turned on, it shows 3 logos: The "Code Lyoko" logo, the "Moonscoop" logo and the "Ingo Devices" logo. At the bottom right of the screen, it says "CL © MS/F3-2011", which I'm not very sure of what it means, but I'm guessing that the console was manufactured around 2011.
Then, it just fades into the title screen, with all the Lyoko Warriors in their S4 costumes (except Jeremie, for some reason). WIlliam is missing in this screen, and the background seems to be the Network. Nothing very interesting here.
In the next screen, we have the Main Menu, with the 5 Code Lyoko games, and the rest of the regular minigames. Some of them are fun, some of them are just unplayable cause they're really boring. None of them is a copy paste, though. The whole menu is themed as the show, with the XANA logo being used in different parts.


Each game has a Lyoko Warrior as the playable character (except Jeremie). Let's check them 1 by 1, cause they're all different:

-- 3.1.- Aelita Space War <----

The first game's Lyoko Warrior is Aelita. In each level of the game, a different XANA monsters is gonna throw some slimey balls, and your objective is breaking them in small pieces until they disappear. From smallest to biggest, there are 4 ball size levels: Green, Light Blue, Dark Blue and Pink. You start with 5 lives, and lose 1 every time one of those balls hit you.
In order to break the bouncing balls, Aelita throws some kind of arrow from a hard-to-recognize item that she's holding, visible on the side sprites. While the monster sprites surprised me with their quality, Aelita's sprites are pretty sketchy and forgettable.
The game is pretty easy at the beggining, but it gets harder and harder until the last level. There's no special boss, or a final type of ball - the game just ends at level 8. Apparently you can get some extra lives during the game, but I haven't really found out what's the criteria to give you a new life. The song is just an minigame theme, nothing remarkable.
There are 3 types of monsters: Hornet, mantas and kongres.
There are also 4 types of background: Mountains, Desert, Forest and the Digital Sea.
In the UI, on the top left we find XANA's logo with the level and the LW's name, on the top right the lives, on the bottom right the score.
Here's a link for screenshots and GIFs of this game: ( https://imgur.com/a/4X5dsyk )
If you want to check some gameplay, here a link to my first try: ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkpyYaiGkjk )

-- 3.2.- Ulrich Adventures <----

The game's Lyoko Warrior is Ulrich. This game is pretty similar to the Flash game "Monster Swarm": In each level, you have to keep moving to the right while avoiding / fighting with the monsters. You start with 3 lives and 3 "durability points", you lose 1 durability point every time a monster hits you, and 1 whole life if you fall onto the void.
You can attack the monsters and it'll throw a bouncing ball (similar to the 1st game's balls) that will paralyze the monster for a few seconds - during that time, you can jump on them and use them as platforms. There are coins all over the level, which only increase your score. You can get 1 durability point by eating a fruit, and 1 whole life if you eat a lemon.
In this case, the sprites are a lot better in general, same for the animations. It's pretty cool how, after you lose all your durability items, a "devirtualization" animation is shown in order to lose a life.
The game is pretty hard, especially for me since the part I needed to continue was always blocked by the dead pixels. However, after playing for some time you get used to it. The most difficult part of the game is having to avoid the monsters on the air, since you're unable to move after that and it's pretty easy to fall onto the void. The song is just an minigame theme, nothing remarkable.
The great surprise of this game is that, when you get to the end of the final level, you have a final battle with XANAfied William. He throws at you 2 straight floating balls, and has quite a lot of life. After you defeat him, he's devirtualized and you win.
There are 6 (+1) types of monsters: Hornet, creepers, kankrelats, tarantulas, kalamars (1st level+), and krabs (2nd level+). William appears as the final boss.
There are also 4 levels: Mountains, Desert, Forest and the Sector 5.
In the UI, like in the previous game, on the top left we find XANA's logo with the level and the LW's name, on the top right the lives, on the bottom right the score; and the new "durability points" on the bottom left.
Here's a link for screenshots and GIFs of this game: ( https://imgur.com/a/Ll7HtqV )
If you want to check some gameplay, here a link to my first try: ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oaCEliJhmI )
And if you want to check the final battle with William, here's another link: ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1H4B1aG1asI )

-- 3.3.- Yumi Move Box <----

The game's Lyoko Warrior is Yumi. It's literally just a box game, with a Code Lyoko theme. Unlike the others, this game has its own menu where you can choose the levels from 1 to 30.
Your objective is pushing (and only pushing, you can't pull) the boxes until the (X) marked destinations. You can undo your steps as many times as you want, and you can also just reset the level.
In this case, the sprites are minimalistic, but they work just fine. Yumi's face is a bit sketchy, like Aelita's, but I didn't really expect much more.
The game is easy at the beggining, but it takes a lot of time to solve the final ones. Honestly, it's probably entertaining for those who like this kind of games, the puzzles are interesting and not repetitive.
Interestingly enough, after beating the level 30 that the menu allows you to choose, it goes to a new level 31. I haven't been able to beat all the levels (yet?), so I'm not very sure of how many levels it has, but I'm gonna go with 50.
The background changes the colors slightly depending on the level, nothing too noticeable.
The UI, in this case, only has XANA's logo with the level and the LW's name on the top left.
Here's a link for screenshots and GIFs of this game: ( https://imgur.com/a/hZcvV6v )
If you want to check some gameplay, here a link to my first try: ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uVty1HMVZ4 )

-- 3.4.- Fighter Odd <----

The game's Lyoko Warrior is Odd. This game is pretty interesting: In each level, some monsters spawn periodically in the doors, until you beat them and a final boss appear. You start with 3 lives and you lose 1 if a monster hits you.
You can attack the monsters with something similar to a laser arrow. Regular enemies only have 1 life point, but bosses have a crazy amount of health, so you need to spend some time fighting them.
In this case, the sprites are okay. Odd's sprite is strange cause his head looks a lot more detailed than the rest of his body. Also, XANA monsters don't have the XANA logo, they look like a bootleg version (except for the final boss).
The game is pretty hard at the beginning, but it gets easier every time you play it. Once you learn how to play around the bosses, you can beat it in one sitting. The song is just an minigame theme, nothing remarkable.
There are 4 types of monsters: Krabs, bloks, kankrelats and kalamars. The first 3 final bosses have nothing to do with Code Lyoko, so I'm guessing they just didn't change them at all. The 4th and last final boss is a pretty cool Manta, though.
This UI is different from the rest of the games: On the top left, we find the level; on the top center, the score; and on the top right, the lives.
Here's a link for screenshots and GIFs of this game: ( https://imgur.com/a/E3g7f2D )
If you want to check some gameplay, here a link to my first try: ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMGZTPh1InE )

-- 3.5.- Code Lyoko Memory <----

This game doesn't have a remarkable Lyoko Warrior, but I'm gonna say it's Jeremie cause it's the only game where he's actually shown. The game is just a memory game with Code Lyoko cards.
There are 2 modes: The first one will show red and blue cards, and after X time the game will choose a red card and you have to find the matching one in the blue cards. The second mode shows all blue cards and you have to find the matching cards yourself.
The card sprites are actually pretty good for a screen like this, I'm pretty sure they'd look a lot better if I had been able to output to my TV.
The game is easy at the beggining, but it gets harder and harder every level. If you want to play a memory game, this is a fun one, I guess. The Code Lyoko cards are interesting enough to keep you playing.
There's a total of 20 levels, and 16 different cards of the LyokoWarriors (including Jeremie) and XANA's monsters. William is in none of them. The megatank is the only XANA monster that doesn't appear in any game, not even in this memory one.
The only change I could appreciate from level to level, apart from the increasing in the number of cards, is that the timer to check the cards increased.
The UI in this game shows the level on the top left, and the "half lives" on the top right, since every mistake just removes half of it.
Here's a link for screenshots and GIFs of this game: ( https://imgur.com/a/bCIbw4I )
If you want to check the whole game, this is a link to a video: ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNNAtWTp6f8 )


Honestly, I have no idea. I haven't dared to open it yet, I wanted to report what I found before doing it, in case I break it.
I plan on opening it this weekend, and checking with some friends whatever is inside. My knowledge on electronics is really really basic, but I guess I'll create a post update for it; and perhaps give it a go at dumping the contents if possible and sharing the findings (only in case it doesn't break Rule 10 since I own the console and Ingo is long gone), just so we know whether or not they left some cool stuff inside.


I've opened the console now and found a few things. The reset button is completely broken, but I can't find any reason of why the AV output wouldn't work.
There are a few interesting chips, but I can't recognize anything in here. I've uploaded everything to this album: ( https://imgur.com/a/cPHCzoY )
We can also confirm that the console was manufactured on the 9th May 2011, and the strange hole next to the AV output is a LED output.
The most interesting chip is a big black one right under the screen. It has some info written:
"Fujitsu Devices Inc. - MSP55LV128 - 0751 M956 JAPAN".
Google throws nothing with it. Some help would be appreciated, it would be a shame if it ended right in here.
And that's pretty much it, for now.
I hope this analysis entertained or interested someone other than me and that it wasn't very long. I honestly was pretty excited to create it to share this rare yet cool piece of merchandising this show had.
KaruzoHikari (Kaz)~~
submitted by KaruzoHikari to CodeLyoko

[META] New to PC Building? - September 2018 Edition


You've heard from all your gaming friends/family or co-workers that custom PCs are the way to go. Or maybe you've been fed up with your HP, Dell, Acer, Gateway, Lenovo, etc. pre-builts or Macs and want some more quality and value in your next PC purchase. Or maybe you haven't built a PC in a long time and want to get back into the game. Well, here's a good place to start.


  1. Make a budget for your PC (e.g., $800, $1000, $1250, $1500, etc.).
  2. Decide what you will use your PC for.
    • For gaming, decide what games and at what resolution and FPS you want to play at.
    • For productivity, decide what software you'll need and find the recommended specs to use those apps.
    • For a bit of both, your PC build should be built on the HIGHEST specs recommended for your applications (e.g., if you only play FortNite and need CPU power for CFD simulations, use specs recommended for CFD).
    Here are some rough estimates for builds with entirely NEW parts:
    1080p 60FPS ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: ~$1,200
    1440p 60FPS high/ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: ~$1,600
    1080p 144FPS ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: $2,000
    4K 50FPS medium/high-settings modern AAA gaming: > $2,400
    It's noted that some compromises (e.g., lower settings and/or resolution) can be made to achieve the same or slightly lower gaming experience within ±15% of the above prices. It's also noted that you can still get higher FPS on older or used PCs by lowering settings and/or resolution AND/OR buying new/used parts to upgrade your system. Make a new topic about it if you're interested.
    Also note that AAA gaming is different from e-sport games like CSGO, DOTA2, FortNite, HOTS, LoL, Overwatch, R6S, etc. Those games have lower requirements and can make do with smaller budgets.
  3. Revise your budget AND/OR resolution and FPS until both are compatible. Compare this to the recommended requirements of the most demanding game on your list. For older games, you might be able to lower your budget. For others, you might have to increase your budget.
    It helps to watch gaming benchmarks on Youtube. A good example of what you're looking for is something like this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eLxSOoSdjY). Take note of the resolution, settings, FPS, and the specs in the video title/description; ask yourself if the better gaming experience is worth increasing your budget OR if you're okay with lower settings and lowering your budget. Note that you won't be able to see FPS higher than 60FPS for Youtube videos; something like this would have to be seen in-person at a computer shop.
  4. Make a build on https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/. If you still have no idea how to put together parts, start here (http://www.logicalincrements.com/) to get an understanding of PC part tiers. If you want more info about part explanations and brief buying tips, see the next section below.
  5. Click on the Reddit logo button next to Markup, copy and paste the generated text (in markup mode if using new Reddit), and share your build for review!
  6. Consider which retailer to buy your parts from. Here's a table comparing different retailers: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1L8uijxuoJH4mjKCjwkJbCrKprCiU8CtM15mvOXxzV1s/edit?usp=sharing
  7. Buy your parts! Use PCPP above to send you e-mail alerts on price drops or subscribe to /bapcsalescanada for deals.
    You can get parts from the following PC retailers in alphabetical order:
  8. After procuring your parts, it's time to build. Use a good Youtube tutorial like this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhX0fOUYd8Q) that teach BAPC fundamentals, but always refer to your product manuals or other Youtube tutorials for part-specific instructions like CPU mounting, radiator mounting, CMOS resetting, etc. If it everything still seems overwhelming, you can always pay a computer shop or a friend/family member to build it for you.
    It might also be smart to look up some first-time building mistakes to avoid:
  9. Share your experience with us.
  10. If you have any other questions, use the search bar first. If it's not there, make a topic.

BAPC News (Last Updated - 2018/09/20)


Intel 9000 CPUs (Coffee Lake Refresh) will be coming out in Q4. With the exception of i9 (8-core, 12 threads) flagship CPUs, the i3, i5, and i7 lineups are almost identical to their Intel 8000 (Coffee Lake) series, but slightly clocked faster. If you are wondering if you should upgrade to the newer CPU on the same tier (e.g., i5-8400 to i5-9400), I don't recommend that you do as you will only see marginal performance increases.


Z370s will now be phased out for Z390s boards, which will natively support Intel 9000 CPUs (preferably i5-9600K, i7-9700K, and i9-9900K).


RTX 2080 and 2080 Ti benchmarks are out; they provide ~10 and ~20 frames better than the 1080 Ti and also feature ray tracing (superior lighting and shadow effects) which is featured in only ~30 games so far (i.e., not supported a lot); effectively, they provide +25% more performance for +70% increased cost. My recommendation is NOT to buy them unless you need it for work or have lots of disposable income. GTX 1000 Pascal series are still relevant in today's gaming specs.

Part Explanations


The calculator part. More GHz is analogous to fast fingers number crunching in the calculator. More cores is analogous to having more calculators. More threads is analogous to having more filing clerks piling more work for the calculator to do. Microarchitectures (core design) is analogous to how the internal circuit inside the calculator is designed (e.g., AMD FX series are slower than Intel equivalents even with higher OC'd GHz speeds because the core design is subpar). All three are important in determining CPU speed.
In general, higher GHz is more important for gaming now whereas # cores and threads are more important for multitasking like streaming, video editing, and advanced scientific/engineering computations. Core designs from both AMD and Intel in their most recent products are very good now, but something to keep in mind.


The basic concept of overclocking (OCing) is to feed your CPU more power through voltage and hoping it does calculations faster. Whether your parts are good overclockers depends on the manufacturing process of your specific part and slight variations in materials and manufacturing process will result in different overclocking capability ("silicon lottery"). The downside to this is that you can void your warranties because doing this will produce excess heat that will decrease the lifespan of your parts AND that there is a trial-and-error process to finding OC settings that are stable. Unstable OC settings result in computer freezes or random shut-offs from excess heat. OCing will give you extra performance often for free or by investing in a CPU cooler to control your temperatures so that the excess heat will not decrease your parts' lifespans as much. If you don't know how to OC, don't do it.

Current Products

Intel CPUs have higher GHz than AMD CPUs, which make them better for gaming purposes. However, AMD Ryzen CPUs have more cores and threads than their Intel equivalents. The new parts are AMD Ryzen 3, 5, or 7 2000 series or Intel i3, i5, or i7 8000 series (Coffee Lake). Everything else is outdated.
If you want to overclock on an AMD system, know that you can get some moderate OC on a B350/B450 with all CPUs. X370/X470 mobos usually come with better VRMs meant for OCing 2600X, 2700, and 2700X. If you don't know how to OC, know that the -X AMD CPUs have the ability to OC themselves automatically without manually settings. For Intel systems, you cannot OC unless the CPU is an unlocked -K chip (e.g., i3-8350K, i5-8600K, i7-8700K, etc.) AND the motherboard is a Z370 mobo. In general, it is not worth getting a Z370 mobo UNLESS you are getting an i5-8600K and i7-8700K.

CPU and Mobo Compatibility

Note about Ryzen 2000 CPUs on B350 mobos: yes, you CAN pair them up since they use the same socket. You might get an error message on PCPP that says that they might not be compatible. Call the retailer and ask if the mobo you're planning on buying has a "Ryzen 2000 Series Ready" sticker on the box. This SHOULD NOT be a problem with any mobos manufactured after February 2018.
Note about Intel 9000 CPUs on B360 / Z370 mobos: same as above with Ryzen 2000 CPUs on B350 or X370 boards.

CPU Cooler (Air / Liquid)

Air or liquid cooling for your CPU. This is mostly optional unless heavy OCing on AMD Ryzen CPUs and/or on Intel -K and i7-8700 CPUs.
For more information about air and liquid cooling comparisons, see here:


Part that lets all the parts talk to each other. Comes in different sizes from small to big: mITX, mATX, ATX, and eATX. For most people, mATX is cost-effective and does the job perfectly. If you need more features like extra USB slots, go for an ATX. mITX is for those who want a really small form factor and are willing to pay a premium for it. eATX mobos are like ATX mobos except that they have more features and are bigger - meant for super PC enthusiasts who need the features.
  • AMD Ryzen CPUs: go for X470s for Ryzen 7 and B450s for everything else. B350s will also work as a sub for B450 mobos and the same can be said for X370s for X470s, but they are being phased out and may require a BIOS update to support the Ryzen 2000 CPUs if it doesn't have a "Ryzen 2000 Series Ready" sticker on the box.
  • Intel Coffee Lake CPUs: go for Z370s for unlocked -K CPUs and B360s for everything else.
If you are NOT OCing, pick whatever is cheap and meets your specs. I recommend ASUS or MSI because they have RMA centres in Canada in case it breaks whereas other parts are outside of Canada like in the US. If you are OCing, then you need to look at the quality of the VRMs because those will greatly influence the stability and lifespan of your parts.


Part that keeps Windows and your software active. Currently runs on the DDR4 platform for new builds. Go for dual channel whenever possible. Here's a breakdown of how much RAM you need:
  • 2x4GB = 8GB is the minimum recommended
  • 2x8GB = 16GB recommended for gaming
  • 2x16GB+ for workstations
AMD Ryzen CPUs get extra FPS for faster RAM speeds (ideally 3200MHz) in gaming when paired with powerful video cards like the GTX 1070. Intel Coffee Lake CPUs use up a max of 2667MHz for B360 mobos. Higher end Z370 mobos can support 4000 - 4333MHz RAM depending on the mobo, so make sure you shop carefully!
It's noted that RAM prices are highly inflated because of the smartphone industry and possibly artificial supply shortages. For more information: https://www.extremetech.com/computing/263031-ram-prices-roof-stuck-way


Part that store your files in the form of SSDs and HDDs.

Solid State Drives (SSDs)

SSDs are incredibly quick, but are expensive per TB; they are good for booting up Windows and for reducing loading times for gaming. For an old OEM pre-built, upgrading the PC with an SSD is the single greatest speed booster you can do to your system. For most people, you want to make sure the SSD you get is NOT DRAM-less as these SSDs do not last as long as their DRAM counterparts (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybIXsrLCgdM). It is also noted that the bigger the capacity of the SSD, the faster they are. SSDs come in four forms:
  • 2.5" SATA III
  • M.2 SATA
  • M.2 NVME PCI-e
  • U.2 PCI-e
The 2.5" SATA form is cheaper, but it is the old format with speeds up to 550MB/s. M.2 SATA SSDs have the same transfer speeds as 2.5" SATA SSDs since they use the SATA interface, but connect directly to the mobo without a cable. It's better for cable management to get an M.2 SATA SSD over a 2.5" SATA III SSD. M.2 PCI-e SSDs are the newest SSD format and transfer up to 4GB/s depending on the PCI-e lanes they use (e.g., 1x, 2x, 4x, etc.). They're great for moving large files (e.g., 4K video production). For more info about U.2 drives, see this post (https://www.reddit.com/bapccanada/comments/8jxfqs/meta_new_to_pc_building_may_2018_edition/dzqj5ks/). Currently more common for enterprise builds, but could see some usage in consumer builds.

Hard Disk Drives (HDDs)

HDDs are slow with transfer speeds of ~100MB/s, but are cheap per TB compared to SSDs. We are now at SATA III speeds, which have a max theoretical transfer rate of 600MB/s. They also come in 5400RPM and 7200RPM forms. 5400RPM uses slightly less power and are cheaper, but aren't as fast at dealing with a large number of small files as 7200RPM HDDs. When dealing with a small number of large files, they have roughly equivalent performance. It is noted that even a 10,000RPM HDD will still be slower than an average 2.5" SATA III SSD.


SSHDs are hybrids of SSDs and HDDs. Although they seem like a good combination, it's much better in all cases to get a dedicated SSD and a dedicated HDD instead. This is because the $/speed better for SSDs and the $/TB is better for HDDs. The same can be said for Intel Optane. They both have their uses, but for most users, aren't worth it.


I recommend a 2.5" or M.2 SATA ≥ 250GB DRAM SSD and a 1TB or 2TB 7200RPM HDD configuration for most users for a balance of speed and storage capacity.

Video Card/GPU

Part that runs complex calculations in games and outputs to your monitor and is usually the most expensive part of the budget. The GPU you pick is dictated by the gaming resolution and FPS you want to play at.
In general, all video cards of the same product name have almost the same non-OC'd performance (e.g., Asus Dual-GTX1060-06G has the same performance as the EVGA 06G-P4-6163-KR SC GAMING). The different sizes and # fans DO affect GPU OCing capability, however. The most important thing here is to get an open-air video card, NOT a blower video card (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0domMRFG1Rw). The blower card is meant for upgrading pre-builts where case airflow is limited.
For cost-performance, go for the NVIDIA GTX cards because of the cryptomining industry that has inflated AMD RX cards. Bitcoin has taken a -20% hit since January's $10,000+ as of recently, but the cryptomining industry is still ongoing. Luckily, this means prices have nearly corrected itself to original MSRP in 2016.
In general:
  • 1080p 60FPS high-settings modern AAA gaming: GTX 1060 6GB = RX580
  • 1440p 60FPS high/ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: GTX 1070 / 1070 Ti = Vega 56
  • 1080p 144FPS high/ultra-settings modern AAA gaming: GTX 1070 Ti / 1080 = Vega 64
  • 4K 60FPS medium/high-settings modern AAA gaming: GTX 1080 Ti
Note that if your monitor has FreeSync technology, get an AMD card. If your monitor has G-Sync, get a NVIDIA card. Both technologies allow for smooth FPS gameplay. If you don't have either, it doesn't really matter which brand you get.
For AMD RX cards, visit https://www.pcworld.com/article/3197885/components-graphics/every-amd-radeon-rx-graphics-card-you-can-buy-for-pc-gaming.html

New NVIDIA GeForce RTX Series

New NVIDIA 2000 RTX series have been recently announced and will be carried in stores in Q3 and Q4. Until all of the products have been fully vetted and reviewed, we cannot recommend those yet as I cannot say if they are worth what NVIDIA has marketed them as. But they will be faster than their previous equivalents and will require more wattage to use. The 2070, 2080, and 2080 Ti will feature ray tracing, which is a new feature seen in modern CG movies that greatly enhances lighting and shadow effects. At this time, < 30 games will use ray tracing (https://www.pcgamer.com/21-games-will-support-nvidias-real-time-ray-tracing-here-are-demos-of-tomb-raider-and-control/). It's also noted that the 2080 Ti is the Titan XP equivalent, which is why it's so expensive. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Irs8jyEmmPQ) The community's general recommendation is NOT to pre-order them until we see some reviews and benchmarks from reviewers first.
Looks like a couple of benchmarks are out. While keeping other parts equal the following results were obtained(https://videocardz.com/77983/nvidia-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-and-rtx-2080-official-performance-unveiled). So the 2080 and 2080 Ti are better than last generation's 1080 Ti by ~10 and ~20 frames respectively.


Part that houses your parts and protects them from its environment. Should often be the last part you choose because the selection is big enough to be compatible with any build you choose as long as the case is equal to or bigger than the mobo form factor.
Things to consider: aesthetics, case airflow, cable management, material, cooling options (radiators or # of fan spaces), # fans included, # drive bays, toolless installation, power supply shroud, GPU clearance length, window if applicable (e.g., acrylic, tempered glass), etc.
It is recommended to watch or read case reviews on Youtube to get an idea of a case's performance in your setup.

Power Supply/PSU

Part that runs your PC from the wall socket. Never go with an non-reputable/cheap brand out on these parts as low-quality parts could damage your other parts. Recommended branded PSUs are Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic, and Thermaltake, generally. For a tier list, see here (https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/631048-psu-tier-list-updated/).


Wattage depends on the video card chosen, if you plan to OC, and/or if you plan to upgrade to a more powerful PSU in the future. Here's a rule of thumb for non-OC wattages that meet NVIDIA's recommendations:
  • 1050 Ti: 300W
  • 1060 3GB/6GB: 400W
  • 1070 / 1070 Ti: 500W
  • 1080: 500W
  • 1080 Ti: 600W
There are also PSU wattage calculators that you can use to estimate your wattage. How much wattage you used is based on your PC parts, how much OCing you're doing, your peripherals (e.g., gaming mouse and keyboard), and how long you plan to leave your computer running, etc. It is noted that these calculators use conservative estimates, so use the outputted wattage as a baseline of how much you need. Here are the calculators (thanks, VitaminDeity).
Pick ONE calculator to use and use the recommended wattage, NOT recommended product, as a baseline of what wattage you need for your build. Note that Cooler Master and Seasonic use the exact calculator as Outervision. For more details about wattage, here are some reference videos:


You might also see some info about modularity (non-modular, semi-modular, or fully-modular). These describe if the cables will come connected to the PSU or can be separated of your own choosing. Non-modular PSUs have ALL of the cable connections attached to the PSU with no option to remove unneeded cables. Semi-modular PSUs have separate cables for HDDs/SSDs and PCI-e connectors, but will have CPU and mobo cables attached. Modular PSUs have all of their cables separate from each other, allowing you to fully control over cable management. It is noted that with decent cooling and airflow in your case, cable management has little effect on your temperatures (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDCMMf-_ASE).

80+ Efficiency Ratings

As for ratings (80+, 80+ bronze, 80+ gold, 80+ platinum), these are the efficiencies of your PSU. Please see here for more information. If you look purely on electricity costs, the 80+ gold PSUs will be more expensive than 80+ bronze PSUs for the average Canadian user until a breakeven point of 6 years (assuming 8 hours/day usage), but often the better performance, longer warranty periods, durable build quality, and extra features like fanless cooling is worth the extra premium. In general, the rule of thumb is 80+ bronze for entry-level office PCs and 80+ gold for mid-tier or higher gaming/workstation builds. If the price difference between a 80+ bronze PSU and 80+ gold PSU is < 20%, get the 80+ gold PSU!


Warranties should also be looked at when shopping for PSUs. In general, longer warranties also have better PSU build quality. In general, for 80+ bronze and gold PSU units from reputable brands:
  • 3 years: EVGA BT / B1 / BQ, Corsair CS / CX / CX-M
  • 5 years: EVGA B3 / BQ / G5 / GQ, Seasonic M12II EVO / S12II, Corsair CX-M
  • 7 years: EVGA G2 / G3, Seasonic Focus Gold, Corsair SF / TX
  • 10 years: EVGA G1 / G1+ / G2 / G3, Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, Corsair RMi / RMx
Any discrepancies are based on varied wattages (i.e., higher wattages have longer warranties) or updated warranty periods. Please refer to the specific product's warranty page for the correct information. For EVGA PSUs, see here (https://www.evga.com/support/warranty/power-supplies/). For Seasonic PSUs, see here (https://seasonic.com/support#period). For Corsair PSUs, see here (https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/warranty).
For all other PSU inquiries, look up the following review sites for the PSUs you're interested in buying:
These guys are engineering experts who take apart PSUs, analyze the quality of each product, and provide an evaluation of the product. Another great website is http://www.orionpsudb.com/, which shows which PSUs are manufactured by different OEMs.

Operating System (OS)

Windows 10

The most common OS. You can download the ISO here (https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10). For instructions on how to install the ISO from a USB drive, see here (https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/manufacture/desktop/install-windows-from-a-usb-flash-drive) or watch a video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLfnuE1unS8). For most users, go with the 64-bit version.
If you purchase a Windows 10 retail key (i.e., you buy it from a retailer or from Microsoft directly), keep in mind that you are able to transfer it between builds. So if you're building another PC for the 2nd, 3rd, etc. time, you can reuse the key for those builds PROVIDED that you deactivate your key before installing it on your new PC. These keys are ~$120.
However, if you have an OEM key (e.g., pre-builts), that key is tied specifically to your mobo. If you ever decide to upgrade your mobo on that pre-built PC, you might have to buy a new Windows 10 license. For more information, see this post (https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/feature/windows/windows-10-oem-or-retail-3665849/). The cheaper Windows 10 keys you can find on Kinguin are OEM keys; activating and deactivating these keys may require phoning an automated Microsoft activation line. Most of these keys are legitimate and cost ~$35, although Microsoft does not intend for home users to obtain this version of it. Buyer beware.
The last type of key is a volume licensing key. They are licensed in large volumes to corporate or commercial usage. You can find lots of these keys on eBay for ~$10, but if the IT department who manages these keys audit who is using these keys or if the number of activations have exceeded the number allotted on that one key, Microsoft could block that key and invalidate your license. Buyer beware.
For more information on differentiating between all three types of keys, see this page (https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/49586-determine-if-windows-license-type-oem-retail-volume.html).
If money is tight, you can get Windows 10 from Microsoft and use a trial version of it indefinitely. However, there will be a watermark in the bottom-right of your screen until you activate your Windows key.


If you're interested in using MacOS, look into Hackintosh builds. This will allow you to run MacOS to run on PC parts, saving you lots of money. These builds are pretty picky about part compatibility, so you might run into some headaches trying to go through with this. For more information, see the following links:


If you're interested in a free open-source OS, see the following links:
For more information, go to /linux, /linuxquestions, and /linux4noobs.



Keyboards and Mice


Please note that the cost-performance builds will change daily because PC part prices change often! Some builds will have excellent cost-performance one day and then have terrible cost-performance the next. If you want to optimize cost-performance, it is your responsibility to do this if you go down this route!
Also, DO NOT PM me with PC build requests! It is in your best interests to make your own topic so you can get multiple suggestions and input from the community rather than just my own. Thanks again.

Sample Builds

Here are some sample builds that are reliable, but may not be cost-optimized builds. These builds were created on September 9, 2018; feel free to "edit this part list" and create your own builds.


Helpful links to common problems below:


Thanks to:


  • Organized news into own section
  • Formatting clean-up (still lots to do)
  • Added core design excerpt in CPU section
  • Added AMD GPU equivalents to NVIDIA ones
  • Added Intel 9000 excerpt
  • Added Z390 phasing out Z370s
  • Added RTX 2080 and 2080 Ti benchmarks
  • Added more subsections
  • Added overclocking section
  • Updated B450s instead of B350s for AMD systems
  • Fixed storage section. Thanks, red286!
  • Added my view on new RTX GPUs
  • Updated sample builds to include both AMD and Intel builds
Sorry for the lack of updates. I recently got a new job where I work 12 hours/day for 7 days at a time out of the city. What little spare time I have is spent on grad school and the gym instead of gaming. So I've been pretty behind on the news and some might not be up-to-date as my standards would have been with less commitments. If I've made any mistakes, please understand it might take a while for me to correct them. Thank you!
submitted by BlackRiot to bapccanada

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